Had a look around on t'internet, seems to be no real reason to have a shower cord in the bathroom. Why does it need to be switched off any more than any other appliance? Apart from maintainence once a decade, in which case you pull the fuse in the fusebox.
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In other words, the child will have an abundant supply of artificial milk.
Every appliance needs an isolator, and an isolator must isolate all live
conductors - that is both line and neutral. It also needs to be either
near enough the appliance that someone working on the appliance can see
(and stop!) somone going to turn it back on, or it needs a lock. So the
fuse in the main fusebox doesn't count - it's single pole and out of
sight (in practice with a fuse you can pull the fuse and put it in
your pocket, but it's still single pole and technically not an
For most appliances, they have a plug. Unplugging meets all the
requirements for isolation. Appliances that don't have an accessible
plug need an isolator switch. That's usually a rocker switch in an
appropriate rating mounted next to the appliance. These aren't allowed
in a bathroom, though, so you have three choices:
a) A pull-cord isolator in the bathroom
b) A rocker switch isolator outside the bathroom, but still within sight
of someone working on the shower.
c) An isolator outside the bathroom that can be locked out.
The default choice seems to be a, though I would argue b is better if
Thought so, which is what I've read in some of the legal documents. Yet everybody seems to be fitting these switches.... Unless it's a greenie thing to stop power wastage from the LED/neon on the shower unit?!
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I didn't know that, and even if I did I wouldn't have been able to
convince the bathroom fitters (pre Part P)
They fitted the pullcord isolator three inches away from the existing
light pullcord, the obvious place for it was in the corner behind the
door when it is open. I got them to move it but it needed a JB to
extend the cable which I would rather not have I the loft.
The other thing they insisted upon was a unswitched FCU for the
mirror light/shaver socket, even though it was fed from a 6A MCB. They
kindly left the 13A fuse in it as supplied.
Indeed, although if you only have single pole switching, then you need
to have a suitable place to allow disconnection of the neutral as well
One could do this at the CU, but it seems preferable to have another
place to do that.
(its also good practice IMHO have local isolation for showers, since
this avoids the whole issue of needing to lock our the MCB, and gives
the consumer confidence that they have a way of turning it off in the
case of an emergency)
Why would you need to remove a 0V wire? They don't hurt when you touch them.
Lock? You switch it off (in the VERY unlikely event you're working on repairing or replacing the shower). If you have a wife or kids, tell them to leave it off, not that they'd have a reason to turn it on if they weren't trying to have a shower and failing (which is impossible since you're in there fixing it).
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Then the RCD is unfit for purpose. It's supposed to detect live to ground, not neutral to ground.
Anyway, if what you said was true, it could happen with any electrical item, as most things only have a live switched off.
It's best not to electrocute someone who's doing you a favour.
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"Did she say anything before she died?" asked the sergeant.
No, that's what it does, in an effort to detect stray current to earth, it's the easy option and as has just been pointed out a complete and utter failure.
It leaves the neutral available.
They'd not get a working shower.
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