If you retain your existing ball valve you could use this.
You would also need some form of float switch in your collection tanks
to make sure it doesn't run dry. These sort of pumps self prime (up to a
point) so can be placed remote from the outside tanks. However, they are
noisy and require a hefty 12V supply.
Those are intended for caravans and boats. We are away in the tourer
caravan at the moment and it uses a pressure switch and small
submersible pump outside in the barrel to pump, with a none return
valve to hold the pressure/ stop it draining back down. The pressure
switch is adjustable for the operating pressure. One thing which
concerned me was that the pump is near silent in operation - so if the
water ran out, no pressure meant it would just run continuously. At
least until someone noticed. I added a piezo sounder, so everytime the
pump ran, the piezo sounded. Annoying, but no chance of it running with
no water. Another way would be a timer circuit, to limit the run time
to a sensible value..
I also fitted a sounder - the smallest I could find, and muffled
At a price, you can now get more intelligent pump controllers:
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
Be sure to put a mesh filter over the intake or you will end up with
mosquito larvae everywhere. They jammed my drip feeders in the first
iteration of my greenhouse watering system from a large rainwater sump.
Depends how much water it will need to pump and for how long.
I got a fairly powerful 12v thing intended for a pond fountain second
hand and altered it to do what I needed which was a short burst of high
pressure irrigation morning and evening. Koi pond pumps also do it.
Submersible pumps are using the water they pump to asist with cooling.
Make sure you design it so that it fails safe. Pump switches off if no
water to pump and overflow can cope with anything the pump can deliver.
I use IBCs to harvest rainwater off a stable roof to supply water
manually to the horses. I don't have a problem with larvae, but I *do*
use the floating "chlorine dosing" thingies what you can use in garden
pools to suppress the level of algae.
I assume that this is what deals with the larvae too.
At another livery yard where I ride, they have a large open water
container of a couple of thousand litres which is fed either from towns
mains or from a local bore hole (not sure which). They keep a handfull
of goldfish in this, which deals very effectively indeed with the larvae
(although it does get fairly "green").
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An old pair of tights stretched over a wire frame did the trick.
Obviously you want to filter over a reasonably large area. Small
goldfish in the raintank seemed to keep the filter clean without
I would not expect every tap to supply potable water. The law only
requires that there is one tap connected to the mains. In a domestic
premises that should be the cold tap over the kitchen sink. All others
should be treated as likely to be fed from a cistern, unless you
definitely know to the contrary.
On Mon, 4 Jun 2018 19:46:13 +0100, Nightjar wrote:
Until a few years ago *none* of the taps here where on the mains, the
mains only went to 3 x 50 gallon storeage tanks in one loft. A few
years ago some of the hot taps went onto the mains. A couple of
months ago some of the cold joined them.
Yes, but the original source of the water in the cold-water tank would
have been treated mains water. I know all sorts of horrors can be found
in loft tanks which aren't covered (many years ago I lived in a block of
flats where pigeon feathers suddenly appeared in the tap water!), but
most people don't know they should really not use bathroom basin tap
water for cleaning their teeth, or they ignore it. Rainwater would have
far more nasties than anything from a loft.
In any case, I have never seen an outside tap which ran from anything
other than mains water, as the pressure from a local tank would be too
low for most hoses.
It ceases to be potable water as soon as it is stored.
My business is supplying screens for overflow pipes, to prevent the less
obvious problem of insects flying up them and carrying infection into
the water supply. That is an important vector in the spread of
Legionnaires disease, for example.
That depends very much upon how it has been handled. Raw rainwater is
likely to contain a lot of rubbish. A system that rejects the first run
off from a dry catchment area and passes the rest of the water through a
series of settlement tanks and filters, should produce fairly clean water.
It probably wouldn't work a sprinkler, but I happily run a seeper hose
off a rainwater butt. It just takes longer than if it were connected to
Some friends of mine used to live in a farmhouse in West Wales, and
their water came from a well. It came to the house via copper pipes, and
there were blue stains under the taps on the porcelain sinks!
White plastic pipe is intended for domestic waste water, so most people
would assume it to be empty unless something was actively running to
waste. Grey BS 3050 pipe would be a better choice as being something not
normally found in domestic installations. Also, if the water is being
pumped. BS 3505 pipe is pressure rated, while white waste pipe is not.
Alternatively, you could apply British Standard identifying colours
along the length of the pipes, to show what is in them. For drinking
water, the colours are three equal width bands of green, blue and green
respectively. For rainwater, the two outer green bands remain, but the
blue one is replaced by three equal width bands of grey, black and grey.
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