Have you actually bothered to give them a bell and tell them a couple of poles are leaning? Better to tell them and have them come and push the poles up in decent weather than wait until a storm brings them even further over and possibly cuts off your leccy supply.
That's about what they cost ready made, UPSs have become incredibly cheap now.
On the two occasions (once to lower the volts to within spec and once to replace one of the 11kV insulators) that we have had engineers here I've pointed the leaning poles them out. They don't seem overly concerned and they are friendly engineers willing to chat not just lets do the job and get outa here.
I doubt that you could just "push a pole up" as a) there is the best part of 6' or more pole in the ground b) you'd have a void on one side c) you need to compress the ground on the other side. The only solution is to plant an new pole, in a new hole. Which round here might be fun as the bed rock is rather close to the surface in places.
Well I wouldn't expect a precision instrument for
True but with an up time measured in minutes delivering the 150W or so that a CH system takes... I've thought about getting a couple of big SLA's for my APC UPS to extend the uptime but the 700VA rating isn't really enough for my current load so I really need a bigger or another UPS anyway...
What sort of engine would that be? A multi fuel engine from a fighting vehicle may be a bit large, an old BMC engine set to run on tvo or maybe a small gas turbine?
AJH
With that sort of capacity? I find that hard to believe - the battery alone would cost much more than that trade price.
No!, you can't do that with today's accountant driven supply industry. Preventative maintenance and genuine customer care?!. Leave it out, its far cheaper, whoops economic, to wait for the things to collapse rather then have that money wasted before they do.
Perish the thought!.....
In article , Andrew Heggie writes
This lot had some decent inexpensive ones when I last looked. Unfortunately they don't update their website as often as they might....
I don't think it says. The display goes down to 0.00W. Just tried a few wall-wart PSU's in it with no load on them. Two registered 7W (but are clearly nothing like that), and a third registered 0W.
Ah, but I doubt any of them are designed to run on 28 sec heating oil as Dave L stipulated. I have a couple that do but they produce 110V @
400Hz, itsy bit noisy too.AJH
Isn't 28 sec very similar to TVO? So an old tractor engine?
You can see brief details at
It's clearly not a high precision instrument - but is nontheless useful in getting an indication of consumption when, for example, speccing an emergency genny.
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Yes I think so, although I think tvo was a bit nearer to petrol than ornery paraffin. Esso were the last to produce it and now the vintage enthusiasts trade various recipes for a substitute. BMC used to make a tvo version of the A series (I think) that was put in Nuffield tractors as a tvo engine, grey ferguson tractors had a tvo version also. Both still up in the 30hp class, I wonder if those old 6hp hopper cooled Listers ran on it?
AJH
IMNHO, yes.
Indeed the MachineMart site and another resellers site where almost verbatim the makers page...
I make that 4.6VA, this is somewhat better than what I have. If you (or Mr Gabriel) have a 15w bulb does it read 15W +/- ballpark?
Does more techy things than mine as well, like current, volts and frequency. I think I want one, note want not need... B-)
Donno. I'm not an engine man, though I see from your other postings in this thread you probably are. I'd gained an impression in the past that a diesel (35sec) would run on 28sec with little if any adjustment. Though I guess "run" might need to be clarified... B-)
28sec heating oil is pretty much the same as parafin and jet A1. So a little more volatile than 35sec diesel, gas oil etc. If you inject not as much and a bit later than you would 35sec would it not do the job?
Just tried it by taking a 15w bulb out of my Goblin Teasmade (blimey, that dates me!) and putting it in my lead lamp. It reads as follows: Voltage: 237/238/239 (fluctuating) Current: 0.07A Power Factor: 1.00 Watts: 16.66/16.75 (fluctuating)
With a 60 watt bulb, it read 59 watts.
All this makes me feel that it's resonably believable - and that the tolerances stated in the spec are rather conservative.
Ah, but bulbs are resistive loads. Know a fellow who'd tested a few, and found that the cheaper ones didn't do too well with inductive and capacitive loads.
That said, it should be fine for getting the numbers in the right ballpark.
Thomas Prufer
Well, with the inductive loads on which I've tried it (e.g. central heating pump) the displayed numbers stack up - in that displayed watts = displayed volts x displayed amps x displayed power factor. I know that doesn't prove that its *right* - but it's got a fighting chance!
The fact that it displays these parameters separately means that you can also work out VA (ignoring power factor) which is probably more relevant than watts when considering the use of gennys or inverters for emergency standby use.
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