Ply-cored fibreglass repair

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> (the black material under the notch is sound-absorbing foam in the > engine bay)

What kind of profile is needed for the repair? If similar to surrounding area, I would tend to make this profile out of marine ply (a little smaller to allow you to cover with GRP) and expoxy resin the ply to the existing wood - consider installing epoxied wooden dowels to provide extra support. Then use epoxy resin and woven tape as suggested to complete the repair. Epoxy works better as an adhesive if there is a gap to fill and is damned strong when done properly. It can also be affected by UV - so does need to be coated with something - but this could possibly be just etch primer and boat paint.

Polyester resin is great for initialy molding, but is not an ideal adhesive. Epoxy resin is a much better adhesive. The advice on chopped- strand matt is true and is only suitable for polyester resins.

I'd tend to suggest posting on rec.boats.building or on a forum like

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where you can get more support from people who have done similar repairs. I have done so in the past, but nothing that could be considered structual.

HTH, Mark

Reply to
marpate1
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Oh yes, there are the ones that operate the "stick two noughts on" philosophy.

Reply to
Steve Firth

No, I recommended the use of glass microspheres as a filler. Some brainless numpty who knows nothing about epoxy or polyester resins and fillers and who knows less than nothing about boat building decided he was the expert and wibbled about "mica" which isn't used as a filler.

The polyester filler sold for use in Halfords is (a) expensive and (b) almost useless since it uses talc or limestone as a filler. This makes it heavy and weak.

For that reason it is possible to get bridging compound which is polyester resin with long strands of glass fibre rather than talc as a filler. This is lighter than the cheap polyester fillers and able to bridge long gaps such as those on Pete's boat. The downside is that it's a bastard to mix and also to trim to shape.

But of course you knew all this since you're such an expert. Shame you didn't think to provide the advice, eh?

Well, your trolling is consistently fuckwitted. It's clear that you don't have a clue.

Reply to
Steve Firth

Doesn't need to be particularly close. The whole area will be underneath the lip of the hatch, which extends as far as the dirty area in the first photo or slightly further.

OK, that might be a good approach.

As I said, the whole repair is going to be under 5mm of plastic screwed down on top, so no need for elaborate finishing.

Pete

Reply to
Pete Verdon

I thought Glassplies were *only* in Southport?

Maybe you were thinking of Stand Glass / Scott Bader who used to be nationwide but in the past few years they have drastically cut back on their branch network.

Also worth considering as suppliers are

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Reply to
Mike

Southport is indeed my local. I thought there was more than one though, as they had grown from the remains of Strand Glass when they closed.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I was buying stuff from Glasplies back in the early 80's when they had ads in Exchange and Mart. Memories of spending hours on the phone to the owner as he could talk the hind legs off a donkey - even if you were in a rush it was never a short phone call.

I wasn't aware of a Strand Glass connection, everything Glasplies sold seemed to be 'unbranded' and seconds grade with short dates or slightly damaged reinforcements such as woven fabric with a missing thread or CSM in oddball widths

I can only recall two Strand Glass northern branches, one at Stockport (or Cheadle?) and one in Leeds, most of the deliveries came direct from their headquarters though.

Reply to
Mike

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