The senility has really set in.
The senility has really set in.
Or use a brass compression tee on the plastic. Insert the pipe inserts, put on nut and olive, wrap olive with PTFE, tighten up.
The really odd thing is that I've spent quite a bit of time trying, on purpose, to make a leaky joint, with both Hep and JG, and failed miserably. This included using very badly cut pipe, not using inserts, shoving the pipe in at an angle etc.
(I know it sounds odd, but I had a load of fittings left over after finishing all the plumbing, and I was curious.)
You obviously haven't got the skills....
I've known people who could manage to do amazing (-ly bad) things with the simplest equipment and materials.
I'm sure near anyone here could make a fair fist of cutting and jointing plastic pipe using any tools that were to hand, but Drivel's a special case. Two left hands comprising all thumbs. With webs between.
In article , Spike writes
And you'll find the plastic pipe cutter is nowhere near £15 as quoted by John, its well worth getting the correct tool to do a good job, there is a time for bodging and this isn't it
.... and hairs on the palms....
The master of gas appliance servicing states his case.
Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw and finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care not to score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression joint.
In article , Doctor Evil writes
John, the tool is about £7, this is not an excessive amount . How much does it cost to have to redo it because you haven't done it properly in the first place? and once you've got it you won't have to risk bodging the job in the future for the lack of the correct tool, I would strongly advise you to do this as well, it will pay dividends in the long run
Remember the DIY credo:
"No job's worth doing if it doesn't require a new tool"
Despite the makers telling you *not* to use a hacksaw - and the fact that you flooded a house when you did, you still tell others to do it.
There must be a reason for this. What does your analyst say?
,
Bertie, I don't know because I always do it properly. I suggested using a compression tee, as these are more forgiving when it comes to the pipe sides being slightly scratched or the end not fully square, and will have greater longevity as no O ring is used. I have used plastic in the past for threading and used compression joints rather than pushfits.
Those cutters I have seen, the makers versions, are about £15. Even so, £7 for one joint then fitting on top is an expensive joint. With one joint, using a hacksaw and trimming properly will do. Just take more time on the cutting and trimming. On a whole system you would not want to do that, so a cutter is necessary.
I would probably lay there for 10 years with most people.
Bertie, I don't need a makers cutter to make a scratch free perfectly square, trimmed, burr free, pipe end.
Who said that? Your local rip-off tool shop?
It's called humour, so I'm not surprised it's lost on you.
There is a serious side to it too, which is that someone who understands the craft of DIY (rather than being an outright bodger) will appreciate their tools and realise when a specialist, or even just better quality, tool can be justified.
There are also craftsmen who will not pay a fortune for a one-off tool and can do the job other ways.
< cut babbling lies >
And bodgers who use an unsuitable tool and cause minor environmental catastrophes. I'd think they'd only lurk in a group like this though, to see if they could learn stuff. Can't imagine one of them posting lots of duff advice.
Personally I always use a sharp knife for wire stripping rather than the specialist tools.. but you need to have 'the touch' especially when you get to specialist coaxial or very fine wiring. Use the right tool and it makes it idiot proof.
True. The ends of the pipe come like that. But doesn't using full lengths all the time make tap positioning difficult?
Thank you
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