Tell other half that it might be using electricity, which is more expensive than gas - but it's working at _more_ than 100% efficiency as a heater.
Sound carzy doesn't it?
All that heat you used to make the steam when you are cooking you get back when you run the dehumidifier and turn the steam back to water.
Andy
Apologies for muscling into this thread but I have a related question. We have a small galley style kitchen with a North facing outer wall and window with a kitchen sink below the window and a small pantry in the NE corner the walls have been cavity filled. Currently I get some black mould behind the pipework under the sink and in the extreme corner of the pantry.
I am about to replace the kitchen including demolishing the pantry which is merely a studded partition. Simplifying and replacing the plumbing may solve the under sink problem as I have not entirely discounted a small leak it is just hard to detect with many of the pipes feeling damp. As for the pantry with more of the corner exposed to the room heat hopefully that will alleviate some the only worrying part will be behind the base cupboard sited in the pantry corner to conceal the CU and meters.
Having to completely replace the entire kitchen ring main and re-route the hob and cooker circuits means it looks like it is going to be easier to replaster rather than simply patching in. I have also got the opportunity to move the main source of heat namely a kick space heater presently under cupboards on the internal wall and perhaps place it under the sink cupboard. I have noticed that the heater mainly blows heat out into the kitchen but some radiated heat does affect the cupboard it is under. At the moment we have no ventilation other than an air brick open into the pantry and opening the window when cooking. That will be replaced by a substantial ceiling extractor above the hob. I was wondering if those more in the know feel what I am intending doing will alleviate the mould issue and if anyone has anymore suggestions?
Richard
OK...
MM. So the cavity filling aint THAT great. Obvioulsy airflow is also restriucted there.
If you have a bad peice of outside wall then I'd consider using insulation backed PB to dry line that area with. Given that you already have cavity insulation the building inspector can't object to more. Then the next issue is ventilation.
Once again, conmsider studding out the walls, puting wiring and plumbing in the studwotk. insulating it a bit. and dry lining. Rerember to put noggins where cupboards are to be hung. Foil backed plasterboard would be greate to stop moisture getting to those outside walls
I have also
I think your ideas there are very sound.
One thing I discovered when laying teh slaet floors in my kitchen was thata coinstatly running cold water pipe (I was mixing a LOT of tile cement) generated condensation ON THE PIPE - I thought I had a leak. Consider insulating incoming cold feeds
That kichen also ended up with an MDF lined wall to cover up a load of rubbish - plumbing and wires behind - and make a GREAT surface to screw cupboards to. lining paper and emulsion paint make a great finish on that
The key thing is to insulate anything cold, and control the moisture. Insulation for the first, Vapour barriers heat and ventilation for the second.
Even drilling a few holes to allow air circulation in closed spces makeas a big difference.
At the risk of stating the obvious, the dehumidifier needs to be left on. At the risk of stating the obvious, running the the dehumidifier while having a window open is pointless. A dh is far more effective than an open window. As I suspected the OP is trolling.
NT
Oh god is it that time of year again?
Oh god is it that time again?
After 8? annual trolling trot outs this must be the uk.d-i-y Xmas panto!
I see the regulars have all played their usual characters so over to the audience....
Altogether now - "TURN THE HEATING ON, ITS WINTER DEAR!"
See you all next year!
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