It's a tung oil base with a bunch of extra plant resins added to improve
UV and anti-weather behaviour. Being Australian they make it from
eucalyptus, kangaroo droppings and boiled up didgeridoos (or something).
The advantages are that it's light on petrochemical solvents, so it's
low-smell, easy to apply without a risk of sticky patches that won't dry
if you over-apply it, and pretty "green" if your client is into that. It
also stores well, as it doesn't thicken up in the tin from these
solvents going walkabout.
The garden oil is as good as anything else, but the woodturning polishes
are the ones that are really outstanding. They're exceptionally quick to
apply and produce a finished item with a hardened and smell-free finish
on, ready for delivery. Great stuff for turning demonstrations at shows.
On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 09:02:05 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
You ever seen a fat koala ?
These days I'm not sure if _food_ is food-safe.
You're skipping the white spirit component in most other finish, which
is of course terrible stuff for liver damage, whether you're breathing
or eating it. OTOH, there are various terpenes and phenols in "plant
resins" and true turpentines, and they're little understood.
Better than lacquer I guess 8-)
Never used Organoil and will have a look, but a traditional protective is
Tung or Teak oil.
Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and
once a year forever.
I have some oak doors (external) that are approaching 100 years old and are
in remarkably good fettle. Care instruction has been passed down through
Tung isn't very good (alone) outdoors. Teak oil is only for teak, ipe or
similar (it's mainly for appearance and assumes the wood is already
That's because they're oak. If they're English white oak (or French)
then they'll last well just thrown outdoors and ignored, so long as
they're a big enough cross-section that radial cracking isn't a
structural problem. American white oak (Q. alba) isn't quite so robust,
but is still pretty good.
I don't know what Habitat are using these days. It could be a red oak
though, which is much less resistant and will need a finish.
Not sure if this helps but cuprinol do various treatments that ar
white spirit based (decorative wood presserver, decking oil, etc)
these are generally aimed at the trade (- ie dont go to B&Q) - I'v
just used some of it on my guarden gate, good stuff kills all plants
vermin and cats!! and the finish is what I wood describe as one tha
shows of the wood, not one of those cheap B&Q gimmicky ones - you kno
- the ones come with those TV adverts and look like you've speared you
fence with excrement. (if only I could spell)
Anyway what are you doing buying wooden furniture, your local builder
merchants got a find select of wood and power tools to make your own!
On 13 Jun 2005 16:20:04 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
No it's terrible. It;s hard to apply without leaving stickiness behind,
it yellows like crazy (why most finishing oils are based on tung, not
linseed) and it has poor weather resistance unless you use the right
sort of dried (aka boiled) oil - which is no longer clear.
Interesting. Linseed oil paints are reckoned to have the longest
recoating times of all wood paints, at 15 years. Maybe the density of
pigment makes the yellowing not such an issue, and boiled is used?
On 14 Jun 2005 04:57:14 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Paints are pigmented - this stops UV action on most of the layer and is
the main reason why paint lasts better outdoors than varnish.
You can make perfectly usable linseed oil external finishing oils or
varnish/oil mixtures, but you can't make them clear and light in
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