OT - another car buying question

As far as I know most things have a list price and a final price.
Some build in, say, 5% or 10% on the price as negotiating room.
Any rule of thumb for used vehicles in the £10-15k range?
I realised that it is a long time since I bought a car.
Cheers
Dave R
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On 05/12/16 12:00, David wrote:

Yes. Take what you have to spend and subtract £2,500 from it, and buy the best that you can find at that price.
The spend the £2500 on sorting out the reasons why it was being sold in the first place.
Older expensive cars depreciate fast, but may not have that much mileage . E.g. uyopu can pick up a 60,000 mile XJ8 for peanuts, thats been well looked after by an old gent who kept it in his garage mostly.
If the car is new enough get an extended warranty on it.

General dealer margin will be around 30%, and its worth looking at cars they cant shift easily that they would like to get shot of. And just ask them what the price is, and subtract 30%, and go from there.,

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On Monday, 5 December 2016 12:09:32 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

y

in





I'd never buy from a dealer - unless buying new.
NT
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

The thing is there's lots of 'private sellers' that are in fact dealers. They buy random junk from the auctions, mark it up a bit and flog it on Gumtree, failing to mention the faults that were in the auction catalogue. You don't get any comeback and they don't have any reputation to protect. The only advantage over the auction is you get to test drive it first. But you do have to ask why somebody sold it at auction in the first place.
Thus far the best trick I've found is to google the phone number, and a red flag is if their number turns up on other car sale listings (there's some websites that handily archive gumtree so you can see previously deleted listings).
Hmm, I wonder if it's possible to scrape the auction listings to check if the vehicle went through recently...?
Theo
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Quite. Although buying an ex lease or whatever car at auction - where it has simply reached the age and mileage where a main dealer won't want it as used stock - can be a good deal. But you need to get it at auction price rather than from a bomb site dealer who has given it a valet and doubled the price.

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On 05/12/2016 16:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I bought my car at auction. 3 years old and 30k miles. It had just come off lease. I bought it for almost exactly 30% of list price. The only flaw with the car was that some bastard had taken one of the keys, and flogged it on ebay for £20. Getting a new one cost £200.
My big tip is to buy in the last one or two auctions before Christmas. The dealers aren't bidding much, because they know the stock will just sit around for two or three weeks before they can even start selling it.
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Yep, though it depends where on the price spectrum you're on. The fees for a private buyer at BCA (for instance) are pretty steep and you don't get to examine the car much before purchase. So the dealer allowing you to walk away is a useful feature. I found one that looked pristine, FSH, MOT record was perfect. Price a bit low, but maybe there was no demand locally. Ran well, everything looked fine. Plugged into the OBD port and read the codes - the dealer hadn't mentioned the >>GBP1000 repair that was imminent which was almost certainly why the owner had traded it in. I might have knackered it even more just driving it home.

It's worth fishing around forums, because sometimes you can find the dealer software to do this is available - and then all you need to do is buy that used key from ebay for £20.

Thanks, I'll remember that.
Theo
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Well, lease cars etc from the lease company are normally not old. Not usually in banger territory.

Lease cars are generally disposed of because they've reached a certain mileage or age. Not because of a hidden fault. Although some may have that too.
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On 05/12/2016 23:34, Theo wrote:

What needed fixing?
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It was electric, and the traction battery had had it. Which is not something you can tell outwardly, only by reading the codes or looking at the battery voltages with an OBD tool over a charge/discharge cycle.
(I must price up the replacement, because it might be useful negotiating ammunition. It might have been worth it if I'd got a price that compensated for the repair cost)
Theo
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On 06/12/2016 01:40, Theo wrote:

Don't the batteries cost lots of thousands of pounds?
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On 06/12/2016 09:33, GB wrote:

If its a Toyota/Lexus product there is a guy in Northampton http://www.hybridbatterysolutions.co.uk who is making a name for himseld
Rob
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Hmm:
"SAFETY WARNING It is important to understand that there is no cheap alternative. Changing battery packs is a very dangerous & complicated procedure which should not under any circumstances be carried out by those who are not electrically qualified to High Voltage standards & have experience of vehicle diagnostics – the Lexus packs can supply a lethal shock of 28.8 Kilowatts! – Equivalent to 10 x 3 bar electric fires, – the current these packs supply is Direct Current or DC which will tend to hold you there!"
- shocks measured in kilowatts?
The process is basically 'unscrew all the trim and unplug it':
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZygEiXw5uE

Anyway, I called up Toyota to find out the cost of a new battery - with bringing in the old one the price is GBP931+VAT. Which isn't bad considering it's good for 150K-250K miles. (I should have said, this is a Prius hybrid - not fully electric)
There are some lower cost bodges that involve replacing individual cells and rebalancing (which is what the above mechanic is doing - eminently DIY-able), so I don't think it's fully necessary to have a new battery - but basically a 1200 quid replacement is the worst case.
(The vehicle in question was a bit far away, so there would have been a risk driving it home on a dead battery)
Theo
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That isn't bad at all, is it. ISTR in the early days of lecky cars a battery replacement was more of the order of 6k quid plus the dreaded.
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But it's a Prius. Only has a relatively tiny battery. A full electric car battery would be a lot more.
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escribió:

Ah, thanks. A spot of googling suggests $2.5 - $3k
It also turned up this:
<http://arstechnica.co.uk/cars/2015/05/toyota-prius-batteries-being- targeted-by-car-thieves/>
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The Prius is generally poor value used as it is so popular with Uber drivers. Until the point when it is no longer suitable then drops like a stone.
It's not a car that makes sense for private use used.
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A colleague who came to join us at my workplace brought his LHD Pious with him, he liked it so much. From Hawai'i.
He said the shipping, import duties, mods, registration, etc. cost him over 4k quid.
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If you already have one, fine. But because of the demand from taxi drivers, they are poor value used. And that's before you consider people thinking you're a cab. ;-)
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It's not hard to avoid them:
Don't buy near London Don't buy anything >200K miles Look at the MOT history: lots of miles in a year or six-monthly tests is a taxi The London PCO cutoff is cars 5 years old, but older already-registered cars are grandfathered: avoid anything with a PCO ticket Other cities' Uber cutoff is ~2007 (I haven't checked what their local PCO requirements are) - buy something that isn't eligible When viewing, holes for taxi plates or lots of boot scrapes are giveaways Don't buy from a dodgy backstreet 'garage' You can plug in the OBD tool and run the dealer 'health check' to see if the car thinks it's unhappy about anything.
Basically go for low mileage one-owner examples, just like any other vehicle. Plus you save 200-300 quid a year road tax. There is of course a running costs/mileage v tax v upfront cost tradeoff to be made, as with any car. They're a bit pricier than a Focus, but then so are a lot of cars.

From what I read, it's actually pretty bomb-proof: there's much less stress mechanically than a regular car, which is why they can go for >400K miles as taxis (highest one on ebay recently was 368K). A traction battery replacement is about the cost of a couple of cambelt changes, which you'd have to do on a >120K car anyway. Generally the things that go wrong are the usual service items - suspension, brakes (since there's regenerative braking the discs don't get used much - they need a regular bit of heavy braking to keep them polished). And there's *lots* of info on the electrical systems out there - very DIYable.
(though obviously won't keep the Clarksonistas happy)
Theo
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