My utility room used to house a conventional floor boiler and the heat even
from the pilot kept the small room at a reasonable temperature, so that the
wife could dry clothes on a ceiling rack. However, since removing the
boiler (new Vailent condenser in upstairs room) the utility is very cold,
and I would like to install some form of heater to keep the temperature
reasonable and the clothes drying. I do not want any incandescant wall
electric heater because the room layout could result in clothes falling from
the rack onto the heater. I have been told that oil filled heaters, although
electrically powered, have no exposed incandescent element. Has anyone any
experience of using this sort of heater? It would be in use for maybe 10 -
12 hours each day.
I really, really doubt that. The pilot light would have outputted a few
Watts max - this is not enough to keep a tiny cupboard warm, never mind
a whole room.
More likely you were experiencing the overall heat leaked from the
boiler when it's firing, which could amount to a couple of hundred Watts.
> I have been told that oil filled heaters, although
Yes, they work pretty well, and would do what you want. Alternatively,
consider an electric towel rail. This would give you up to say 400W
output, and some rails to hand stuff on.
Yes, your probably correct. I suspect that the firing periods and retained
heat did the drying, but some of the heat was obviosly retained during the
off periods and kept the room frost free. At the moment, I store my beer in
there because its colder than the fridge.
I know it sounds strange, Grunff, but my hot water is kept lukewarm, OK for
hand and face washing, all through the summer, the heating is off and only
the pilot light is running.
There's no other source of heat; lots of people, (well, one) have said the
same as you, but it is really true
That's different. 10W in a well insulated boiler will cause the heat
exchanger to reach maybe 35-40C over a few hours. When you pull water
through it, you use up some of the energy stored in the heat exchanger
to heat the water.
Do this simple experiment - run the hot water with your boiler turned
off (but the pilot on). You'll get a few minutes worth of warm water
(measure the temperature - that would be interesting to know), then it
will go cold.
I didn't realise it was all that different, perhaps it is, I've only got my
own experience to go on, and my hovel hasn't got a utility room! Most
people do tell me it's cobblers, so I'm a bit surprised at you (old septic)
I do it all through the summer; I've never tried measurements but it's nice
and comfy for ablutions; you'll have to wait for the heating to be no
longer required to get a proper scientific answer! But I imagine I get a
pretty large bulk of lukewarm water for the weekly facewash
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:52:25 -0000, "Zipadee Doodar"
Could you not plumb in a small radiator? An electric heater is
going to cost a fair bit to run. You might even find that the
incremental cost wipes out a significant part of the condensing boiler
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Is there any way you can run just a piece of pipe, say 22mm, along the
length of the room, maybe at floor level ? This could be connected at each
end to some 10mm to 22mm reducers and would let the small room have a little
bit of heat from the rest of the system. Just like a small unobtrusive
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:12:07 GMT, BigWallop wrote:
Adding a "radiator" from the house heating system seems like the best
approach to me. As someone else said running an electric heater for
the times mentioned is quite liekly to eat any of the savings the new
This length of pipe would need at least one valve somewhere so that
the flow through can be controlled otherwise it might seriously
unbalance the system.
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
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