And then you will be hit with the "Oil Flush Treatment" scam.
And then you will be hit with the "Oil Flush Treatment" scam.
Plagiarism abounds...
Modern cars are designed to run much hotter than those made 30+ years ago. Such high temperatures cannot be withstood by mineral oil and hence the need for synthetic or semi-synthetic oils.
If your car needs synthetic oil then you must use it. If your doesn't need synthetic oil don't waste money (twice as expensive) on it.
That isn't what happened when I managed to forget to check the oil level in mine for the MOT and agreed to have it topped up in front of me. It came out of a 20l drum and there weren't a lot of those drums of engine oil.
And when you do it yourself, the operations selling the oil don't have 4 or 5l containers by car brand and model, just have about 10 different types, everythng from dinosaur oil to partly synthetic to fully synthetic and a variety of thickness grades and a few specialist oils like for diesel engines.
In the scheme of things the cost is small.
I used to skimp on cheap oils believing that it was best to change the oil and filter but now convinced that wear in engines was accelerated. Just my gut feeling. I now use Fully Synthetic oil without fail.
I also note that most service intervals are very much extended. One vehicle it's 20,000 or 2 years. 5-30W Fully Synthetic low ash oil is recommended.
Funnily enough, my wife's 17 year old Matiz has just failed its MOT today - one of the failures being a corroded sump! It's the first time I've ever come across it and, by pure chance, it happened to be at the same time as this thread.
Yes. I was used to thermostats opening at 82 to 87 °C and testing them in a pan of hot water. I wanted to test my current car's thermostat and found that it doesn't even start to open until 105 °C, so I'd need to use cooking oil or something similar, which is in short supply at the moment!
And if your car needs semi-synthetic oil, which is often little cheaper than fully-synthetic?
Never heard of that before, and after some googling it implies the sump is in imminent failure.
Major oil leaks are now a fail. I have been advised to jet wash the underneath. I took the under-tray off and gave everything a good clean. And of the course the under-tray.
RTFM. The manufacturer knows what your engine needs.#
Using the wrong oil is a bad as running a car and doing a high mileage for 2 or 3 years without an oil change, as one of my neighbours does.
The point is that, from what I have read before, for those designed for plain mineral oil not only is synthetic a waste, but it can actually be damaging, but for those requiring semi-synthetic, fully synthetic is usually fine and may allow longer between changes.
How does it sometimes damage the engine ?
I am not convinced that any engine does.
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