I am replacing all the brass door furniture throughout the house with satin nickel. The hinges are the same size (75mm) but the outer screw holes don't
100% match the original. What are my options to ensure the hinges are fixed securely?TIA
How far out are the holes? Will the screws pull tight and the heads not be wonky? If so no problem...
Otherwise it's packing the old holes with small match stick sized bits of wood and glue. Remember the hole left a by wood screw is tapered so a sinle match gently tapped in will fill the bottom of the hole but require more around the top.
Pack the old screw holes with matchsticks.
I'm glad its not just me that does that!! Are matchsticks / matchstick sized pieces of wood the filler of choice of professionals for these sorts of holes? I've never had a problem with it, but just curious if I'm doing things right or wrong!
Matt
Presumably the holes are in *nearly* the same place, but not quite - so that the old and new holes would partially overlap?
I would be inclined to drill out the old holes to (say) 1/4" and then glue some 1/4" dowelling in the enlarged holes. You will then have something firm to which to screw the new hinges.
Thanks all who replied. I did think about matchsticks and glue, just wasn't sure if that was the correct thing to do.
It's the traditional way. ;-)
I'd use a self centering bit to drill the pilot holes - a help if the old ones are close to the new.
There is a snag with plugging the holes with dowel or matchsticks. If the new screw holes are going to run into, or even partly into, the wood you are effectively screwing into end grain. The perfect solution is to enlarge the holes to, say, 1/2" and glue in a plug cut using a proper plug cutter. I've repaired a number of worn hinge screw holes that way before.
Pack the old holes with split bamboo chopsticks. They're easier to split than matchsticks, and they're harder and thus give a better grip. These are doors we're talking about here, not just cuphooks.
I've a big pile of old (recycled from Budokan) chopsticks in the workshop - they get used for everything from gluesticks to dowel pegs. For coopered chests like this, I'd be there all day if I had to make dowels too.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in
How unprofessional!
You're supposed to use cocktail sticks - that's why the ends are tapered.
Amateur! Its bamboo skewers.
Why would that be a problem? Thousands of door frames, skirtings etc have been fixed that way in the past - it was standard practice.
I'm not saying screwing into end grain won't work, but I've found from practical experience the holding power with ordinary screws in end- grain is usually sh*t compared to cross-grain. Admitedly some of these fancy multi-start poxy-drive screws may be OK.
Go on call me a luddite.
OK, you're a ........
:-)
Ah, but the end grain is confined by the hole around it. I use 4mm dowels (when I can find the buggers, no one seems to stock them anymore). Perfect fit for No 8 screws. Hammer it in, the taper starts it off, then use a Turbo Gold screw.
Easier to get a sailor off your sister than shift that.
Re align the hole with a small drill bit and use a longer screw
No, those are for putting under the fingernails of anyone who yells you how unprofessional the job looks
In message , Roger Mills writes
now, where's my poster of screws with two threads, offsets etc ...
The only possible snag with matchsticks is that they're (or were) often dipped in wax, which might stop the glue working properly.
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