new beech worktop split - how come ?

Hi

Can anyone advise on this please ?

Got some new beech worktops as part of a kitchen from Wickes. Noticed today that the blocks that make up the worktop have slightly split apart at the join between the sink taps, and are also splitting out towards the end from the right-hand tap.

I'm wondering why this is - the worktops had the requisite number of rubs with the linseed oil before going on. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the plumber didn't oil the holes he drilled for the taps, but the taps have only been in about 10 days and we haven't really been using the sink at all yet. It's not been wet, that's for sure, but I guess plenty of heat comes through the window.

Can anyone provide an explanation for this? Faulty worktops? Plumber at fault ? Taps clamped too tight (though the gap is non-existent at the actual taps, so one would assume that a good clamping is actually helping in this case).

It may also be possible that one of the taps is leaking slightly - there was some water on the base of it today, but again it's been well and truly oiled before fitting with possible exception of the holes, and it's also had a few coats whenever anyone is passing.

*stumped*

Thanks for any advice

A
Reply to
andyjgw
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Possibly just bad luck. There's often stresses in timber that cause it to warp/split when it's cut. You'e been unlucky that you hit a patch particularly prone to splitting. Are they solid beech boards or some kind of glulam/blockbaord? Is the wood grain particularly wild around the split?

Reply to
dom

Beech warps badly from water and is singularly ill suited for use round sinks.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Worktops of this type will routinely expand and contract across the grain as humidity changes. If it was new, it might still have been rather green. The worktop needs fixing in a way which allows this expansion and contraction. If it is firmly fixed front and back, when it contracts it may split, and if it's going to do so, it will likely pick a weakened area.

I have a table with a top of this type of construction. It has bracing pieces across the bottom to help prevent warping, but the screws fixing these bracing pieces to the top are deliberately loose so the top can expand and contract without cracking.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Don't put too much faith in the oil. It's just a finish and won't stop stresses in the timber causing movement. Nature of the beast

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Thanks for the replies folks.

However, closer investigation tonight found that there was in fact a small leak from the tap running down the tap body and therefore into the un-oiled hole. I think we might get away with a sanding of the afflicted area and ensuring it is well sealed before putting the taps back in.

Not very happy: quoting the plumber - "well i never oiled the holes". He was the one who cut them.

Not too delighted, but Wickes already supplied us with new tap valves as we had stated to them that the tap kept dripping. Didn't know it was also running down the body as I said, but perhaps we'll have some comeback in light of this...

Thanks for the advice

A

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Reply to
andyjgw

Hi,

Sounds like the wood around the holes is drying out more quickly than the rest of the worktop, causing the splitting.

The 'end grain' showing inside the holes ideally should have been sealed with something totally impervious like silicone, not oil.

Also under the taps should be sealed with a soft sealant, maybe 'low modulus' (stiffness) silicone to stop water getting under there.

Wickes may be able to pass on a helpline for the manufacturer, or do some Googling.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

That sounds good to me Pete, many thanks for the advice on sealing it.

As I said in my other message, we now know what caused the splitting - water leaking down the back of the tap as well as out the end of the spout. When the new taps go on, I'll be ensuring they get clarted up with everything under the sun to stop any further leaks going down the dark hole. We'll seal the holes properly one way or the other.

We've decided to take the taps back and have a go at them. By supplying new valves, they've kind-of admitted some liability, so will see what happens.

Thanks again

A

Pete C wrote:

Reply to
andyjgw

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