Getting a ring off a beech worktop

Mar 11, 2012 12 Replies

Hi



A cast iron pan lid was left on a stove and then placed on an beech block worktop. This has scorched a ring into the surface of the wood. The worktop has a stained and oiled finish. It a Wickes worktop.



Question - is my only option to sand, stain and oil the entire L of worktops? I assume that if I sand down the scorch mark, I will sand through the stain and then have an area lighter than the rest of the surfaces.



If anyone's got any advice - even if it's yes, your worst fears are true, then please let me know.



Thanks



David


Lateral thought - if you had a router, you could route out a bit and inset a heat proof pad of toughened glass, tiles or something else :)

If you just sand the ring, you will get a noticeable dip in the worktop. You can probably re-oil it a few times to match the colour. I would use danish oil. Your best bet would be to sand the entire top, but that will be hard if you have taps set into the worktop as I seen in some places.

Jonathan

Ohhh, now that is clever.

And it would make it a designed feature instead of a repair.

Excellent solution, and probably future-proof the same thing happening again. I like that very much :)

Thanks guys. I like the idea of the routed inset, but with my skills, I suspect that I will be getting back to you with an "I-have-weird- shape-of-irregular-depth" question if I go down that route. I look into the crystal and I see a man surrounded by dust - that man is me.

Thanks again

David

A router would be the quick and easy way - if you happened to have one,

But if you were to say, elect to use 4 square ceramic or stone tiles, you would reduce the job to a chiseling one - and the only important bit would be to get neat edges - a little depth variation and roughness on the bottom would not matter because you'd be filling that with tile adhesive.

The quick and easy way is to buy a pan stand and place it over the mark.

An alternative to a router is...

- Make a template out of MDF with suitable hole cut in it

- Clamp & weight the template to the worktop

- Make sanding wood blocks & glue Alox sandpaper to it

- Sand through the template, avoiding tilting the blocks

- Vacuum regularly to avoid clogging things up

Alox P80 is aggressive enough to go down 3mm in a not unreasonable time. Then P150 P320 & oil a lot. Square off the bottom as necessary perhaps making a sanding block with a top piece that sits flush on the MDF template when the bottom is square and level all the way across. Gives a guide anyway.

Get two pieces of tempered clear glass cut & ground edge to fit (one spare!), about =A36-8.

For a better effect, use round-edged blocks and round-edged template. Requires a bit of precision, but would look a lot better I suspect than a square edge.

You are trading a few hours time & patience for the speed of a router (which would still need a template making anyway).

Best way to hide something is to make it conspicuous :-)

Indeed. A packet of chocolate mini rolls has sat next to the oranges in the fruit bowl for 4 days now. A record for them to remain intact in our house.

You presume they are still real... have not been replaced by socks, via a hole carefully cut in the bottom of the pack... are original when in fact they are a replacement pack to hide the original's consumption.

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