Network wiring

[rbel]

I am having FTTC connected in a couple of weeks time and want to set up a new connection for my router that will do away with all the unsightly surface wiring BT have installed over the years.

My current plan is for Openreach to install their modem adjacent to an NTE5 in the hallway and connect this via a patch lead to a RJ45 socket in an adjacent built-in cupboard. I am thinking of running CAT5E from this socket, via the loft and another built-in cupboard, to another socket, adjacent to my desk. I will connect my Billion 7800n router to this.

I have found some basic network wiring info on the TLC site -

I understand that the single run of CAT5E should be able to feed a phone socket as well as the RJ45 outlet - if this is so which strands?

[Mike Barnes]

rbel@?.?.invalid:

You can buy adapters that make it easy, e.g.

The adapters are going to look a bit clunkier than twin-socket wall- plates, but speaking for myself I prefer a self-evident setup.

Bear in mind that Gigabit won't work on this link because it needs all the pairs.

[Andy Burns]

If your ISP has paid for the option to relocate the NTE (by up to 30m I think) why not have the NTE and modem in the cupboard (provided you can get power into it)?

If you are only using 10/100Mb ethernet, then pins 1,2,3&6 will be used, you can use either of the other pairs for phone.

[rbel]

Having re-read the details of the offered Plusnet/BT installation in the last hour I realised that it included provision for an extension from the BT socket to their modem. As the connection was going to be in the (well ventilated) boiler cupboard which has a spare 13A socket that should help a bit.

Many thanks for this. So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using modular sockets.

[Andy Burns]

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1 org = ethernet 2 wht/grn = ethernet 3 grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2 brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering with for most phones now.

[rbel]

Excellent. My phone is 2 wire so no bell connection.

[Java Jive]

I really wouldn't put any electonic equipment in the such a cupboard. For one thing, most common-or-garden domestic routers are rather prone to overheating.

For another, they are rather vulnerable to electrical spikes, which boiler circuits are rather apt to produce as the burners are lit and/or ext>

[charles]

[rbel]

I take your point about overheating but the interior of the cupboard is no warmer than the area outside it as it is ventilated, the boiler is a modern unit and all the 'hot' pipework is all well insulated.

I had thought about the likelihood of spikes and was thinking of using either a 2 gang MK filtered socket to feed power to the router and the modem, or running a separate supply from a near at hand circuit in the loft.

[tony sayer]

In article , Java Jive scribeth thus

Indeed. As is a lot of equipment..

You must have a very olde burner if its still putting splats across the mains. Ours are as quiet as an electronically suppressed mouse;!...

[John Rumm]

Even if it was three wire, you would be better running just a a pair and regenerating the bell wire at the far end if required (using a bell capacitor or a microfilter (which includes one)).

[rbel]

Indeed, I disconnected the bell wire on my existing setup some years ago following the advice on the site of a very good ADSL filter and socket supplier (who now seems to have disappeared).

[The Natural Philosopher]

the correct thing is a 'master socket'

However strictly you should NOT have too many in parallel across the line. In fact there should be only one, hence 'master socket'

[John Rumm]

The correct thing for this application is actually a "PABX Master" - similar to the normal one, but it lacks the lightening suppressor and the test resistor found in the full NTE5 style master.

[The Natural Philosopher]

yeah you dont want em floating away!

pretty sure mine have resistors

[Peter Crosland]

Before you fit in a boiler cupboard try making some measurements of the actual temperature in it first. Router tend to run hot anyway and unless the temperature is seldom going to be above 25C then it is asking for trouble.