I'm laying a new solid oak floor in the lounge over the existing 20mm
Victorian pine floorboards. The new oak is thinner than normal at 14mm.
I'm planning to put hardboard down first then 6mm fibreboard from Wickes
then nail the oak at an angle through the tongue. I'll probably try to
hire one of those special floor nailers but I don't know yet whether it
will work because the oak is thinner than standard.
The question is how many nails to use? What's the normal spacing - every
6 inches, every foot, every 2 feet or what?
Well, I have not used this exact screw. I've used others from the Tite
range without issues, and also similar from SPAX.
My experience is that with 3.5mm, they usually self drill very well.
However, oak needs special care (I've worked with oak doorframes) so
there is a possibility you might need to pilot the tongue.
I just threw the idea out there - you'd need to verify if it will work
for you - and also, if it is worth it. If there are cables and pipes
under the floor, I'd rate it as "worth it" - but personally, I would not
say an additional floor in that environment - I'd either recondition or
replace the floorboards and screw down (as I am doing in my upstairs).
Well I have tried them to fix down Wickes '18 mm solid hardwood'
flooring and if you try to unscrew them they tend to snap
because they are very slender.
Just use ordinary spax screws and drill+ countersink the hole using
and combined drill+countersink bit.
Ah! So it doesn't actually go through the tongue at all - it starts
above the tongue and goes in at a shallow angle.
As a result, the clamping force generated by the screw has a larger
horizontal than vertical component, so I can see how it helps to keep
the boards tightly together.
Whilst I agree about the ease of removing screwed flooring, I've
never seen a US solid wood floor other than nailed. I saw a program the
other night, where someone installed Bamboo, rather than oak as it is
much more resistant to stiletto heels. Thinking about it, I remembered
our oak flooring was quite damaged by shoes in the last house.
On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 11:44:55 +0100, Tim Watts wrote:
I didn't realise you could get screws with a small enough head for this
to work but toolstation seem to do 2 types - lost-tite (33733) and tongue-
tite (53848). The lost-tite screws are threaded at a shallow angle close
to the head which is presumably designed to provide additional grip in
the piece being screwed down. I think I'll get a packet of each to
test. I do like the idea of being able to take stuff up again if
I'm a bit worried about splitting the oak but we'll have to see. For
spacing the only thing I can find is screws no further than 12 inches
apart and no closer than 2 inches from the end of each piece.
Thanks everybody for you comments.
and if there is any flexing the nails gradually work up and cause issues at
the joint. This happened at a library near me some years ago, but I never
did find out what they did about it.
Of course much more wear in a library than on a domestic floor.
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
I did pretty well that - but use a high quality engineered oak. Basically
plywood with the top 12mm layer being oak.
Bought a new manual nailer then sold it after use on Ebay for a lot less
overall cost than hiring. And, of course, no pressure in finishing the job
within the hire time. Which was longer for me as I removed the skirtings
etc to get a decent looking job.
I went for 12" spacing. But only used a plastic membrane as the original
boards were sound and level. Been very pleased with it - virtually creak
But I'm not sure if solid oak would split by nailing more easily than ply?
*Corduroy pillows are making headlines.
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
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