Round 2, the endoscope has arrived!
I have removed the light fitting in the kitchen and it has a chocolate block connector behind it presumably performing the function of a ceiling rose in connecting the lighting ring. The three spotlights are marked 240 v so presumably no transformer.
I have a live indication from a neon on the red cable and 66 volts across red and black when it is on, 0 when off (it's two way lighting).
There is an outdoor light as well (which also doesn't work) and a double gang switch by the back door, one for the kitchen light, the other for the outdoor light. Voltage at the connector is impacted by BOTH switches, that seems odd and I need to get my head round it.
I poked the endoscope up the hole where the chocolate block is and I can see white cables, fibre glass and the underside of the chipboard. I am having a bit of an issue orienting myself so I can understand what I can see.
I'm having a cup of tea while I think this through, particularly 66 volts....