Moving electricity meter

We're having an extension built on our house. The electricity meter was outside on the wall which will become part of a shower room so we're having it moved to a box in the new outside wall. We've paid handsomely to have the supply moved and have been given a rather strict and arbitrary list of requirements. In particular, we are told that we must have a separate isolator 'adjacent' to the meter as the tails to the consumer unit are about

3.5m long. It cannot be in the same meter box so our electrician installed it today in readiness - a 10cm by 20cm by 30cm monstrosity in the middle of the wall in the hall.

Has anyone else hit this challenge and found a more elegant way out? I am told that issue 17 of the IEE regs says that these conditions can be imposed by the supplier. We are in south west London region.

Reply to
Phil B
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I would just ignore the rules on this one and either just fit the isolator in the box with the meter or ignore the 3m rule for the length of the tails.

In fact I will be able to take a photograph of me ignoring the rules tomorrow morning.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

In article , Phil B writes

I expect the requirement is to have a switch-fuse ie a combined switch isolator and a fuse to protect the 3.5m run (sub-main) to the consumer unit. This is a sensible precaution and is normal if teh tails are longer than a metre or so.

I can't see why it can't go in the meter box, a switchfuse can be as small as a mini garage consumer unit or about 100x75mm plus the extra room required for the tails to bend around. Is there any possibility the requirement was misunderstood?

Several here more qualified on me to comment (including former supply industry pros) who should be able to guide.

When I move my meter (oops, did I say that), it will be flush mounted in a sturdy and secure box fabricated by me and not some poxy and easily vandalised plastic box.

Reply to
fred

Is it a problem to use a totally unobtrusive flush enclosure?

NT

Reply to
NT

Ah, so it sounds like there is a requirement to have it in a separate from the meter.

I suppose the pragmatic approach is to let the supplier move the meter to the meter box then shift the switchfuse into the box later, making sure that the submain cable has enough slack to stretch to the new location. Then remove the unsightly extra box.

Do post ;-)

Reply to
fred

But the OP had paid for the meter box so it is his!

If a photo of a 80A fused isolator next to a meter keeps you happy I will:-)

On a new installation there is usually a nice Wylex REC2 isolator just where I want to fit the fused isolator. I keep the Wylex isolators and give them away to good posters on this group for free when they need one or flog them on Ebay.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

And what is the protection for the single socket (it must be a two fuse Wylex board that is next to it)

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Hum presumably these REC2's are just switches rather that switch fuses for the protection of a submain? Hence you taking them out and fitting a switch fuse?

If we ever kick the DNO into shifting the supply here a few isolators or switch fuses might be useful. B-) Though I suspect our spark will have one of those Stanley tape measures when it comes to measuring the length of the tails...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Yes.

I will save the next REC2s I "find" just for you. Your chances of a free fused isolator is zero.

Give me two weeks to get them. How many do you want?

Reply to
ARWadsworth

I persuaded EDF to let me leave a small Wylex 100A DP isolator in "their" meter box - after all the Wylex is small and purpose designed for the job - and as I pointed out I'd made the tails long enough to be looped straight into the meter, we all agreed it would be easy to remove if the space is needed.

Part of the issue is whether the REC want an isolator or a switch-fuse assembly. For 0.5m over the usual (although it can vary by REC) prescribed limit of 3m tails I don't think I'd be that bothered - but of course, you have to get the bloke to be happy enough to put the cutout fuse back.

If they do require a switch-fuse (which are quite lumpy units) the other solution is a second meter box outside next to the main one.

Reply to
Tim Watts

the isolator. And has the CPC in that cable been cut off?

Also both old and new colour codes present but no warning labels.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Well spotted, did not notice that on first look...

I was about to say, it looks like a 3036 wylex board beside it... ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

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?action=view&current=100_0707.jpgI did dress the tails properly after taking the photos.

What is interesting is how the front cover of the isolator has nicked the insulation on the cables. I never noticed that until I looked at the photos. I make sure that I learn from that.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

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don't leave you much room to get the nails into the tails between the cut-out and the meter, do they?

Reply to
Andy Burns

Dunno, I had to connect them myself afterwards.

15A cartridge fuse in the Wylex board, standard radial socket circuit. That's the landlord's supply.

JGH

Reply to
jgharston

Thanks, I just wanted to see an example before I did mine although it may be some time yet.

Glad this thread came up as it has prompted a rethink of my situation and I've worked out a way to move the consumer unit closer and avoid a submain/switchfuse.

I see the earth passing through the switchfuse, is this a regs stipulation? I was going to do the isolator on the cheap and use a 100A

2 pole consumer unit isolator in a small DIN rail box. Tails would be singles with the CU earth going direct to the main earth terminal.
Reply to
fred

I took the earths to the switchfuse as I was using a 16mm T&E on the outgoing side. The shroud for the switch fuse (the one that only has one screw holding it to the wall in the photo but I did use two on completion and is an extra £4) makes it a neater job to teminate the 16mm cable's earth and easier to take a PSC and Ze reading at the switch. Also I fitted the single pole Henley block for the earth (thats why it is not level) and I would have had to tap into the cutout's PME terminal if I had not fitted this.

If I was using 25mm tails and a 16mm earth on the outgoing side I might terminate the earth at the suppliers earth block (if there was one).

I think I paid about £35 (inc VAT) for the switch fuse and shroud

Reply to
ARWadsworth

And I did swap the fuse for a 60A one before anyone does the calculations!

Reply to
ARWadsworth

In article , ARWadsworth writes

Reply to
fred

So why do you need a new sig?

Reply to
ARWadsworth

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