moving burgular alarm PIR

My PIR needs to be moved about 10 foot closer to the alarm - the alarm company surveyor came this morning and was scathing about the whole system - his engineer last month wasnt. I got the impression he wasnt keen and I might get a big quote for the work - how hard is moving the PIR? Is it just a couple of cable that attach the things?

Reply to
emma
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Usually 6 wires maximum. Depending on type. If you can shut down the alarm totally and observe where the wires go when shortening them should be ok - but avoid shorting them.

If you can't shut off the alarm by entering the engineering mode it will go off when you disconnect.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Technically its easy.

But do you have a maintenance contract? Is it monitored? Do you have to have it engineer reset when it goes off?

Reply to
dennis

No contract, no monitoring, its just the code to reset if it goes off..

Reply to
emma

The wiring is the easy bit. The hard bit will be stopping the anti tamper alarm and reseting the system if you don't have the engineer code(s) and possibly the enginnering instructions if the system doesn't have a friendly display to tell you what to do.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

OK, but will that code that resets the panel from "alarm mode" also reset it from "tamper mode"? Some do some don't it depends on the panel. We need the make and model of the panel.

Shorting or opening the wires may or may not trigger the panel into some form of action, depends on how the system is configured and which wires you open/short.

"Alarm" loops tend to be make to trigger, "tamper" loops break to trigger. How ever some systems use resistors and monitor the loop resistance to decide if an event is an "alarm" or "tamper" one.

A simple system uses 6 wires, 2 for power, 2 for the normally open "alarm" loop and 2 for the normally closed "tamper" loop.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

It will (or at least, should) go off due to a tamper alarm, not a normal alarm condition.

Just be sure that a standard reset deals with that..

(What make's the alarm box?)

Reply to
AJ

There's also the matter of ensuring you haven't selected a location which will cause false alarms for some reason, or which leaves some previously protected important area unprotected, or moved it in or out of the entry path (which would probably require reprogramming that zone).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

No, I simply want to move the PIR six feet closer to the console, it will not trigger any false alarms. My local company wants =A3150 to do this, even with the ceiling down, which seems pretty much daylight robbery to me, and another co. will only do the work if I sign up to a service contract with them first, and have yet to send me a quote. Its a Scantronics 9452, the PIR is now dangling off the wall as I type, and pretty much just needs another hole made in ceiling so I can route the cable and PIR back. I have the user code. Ideally I'd replace the PIR with a new non grotty one, which would obviously involve triggering the tamper, and I'm slightly concerned that I may inadvertantly trigger the tamper while moving the PIR even If I don't replace the PIR unit.

So having said all that, how do I deal with the tamper, and any tips?

Reply to
emma

I have moved/removed ours.

They often don't have a tamper, but if they do just have someone standing by at the console ready to type in the code when you take the lid off.

Note the colour of the wires and terminals.

Move, rewire, replace cover and test.

John

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Reply to
John

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