Having just taken off skirting to fit flooring under it, I was surprised to find this. Then I go on line and find it described.
One piece is just cut off straight, the other is cut straight for the thickest part, but then is longer where the other board is thin - filling the gap nicely. So it looks at first glance as though it's been cut badly.
I know that's the way the 'professionals' do it. But is it really any easier than mitring the corner?
I've tried both, and prefer the results with the profile/coping method.
Sheila
Its easier mainly because you are only doing one mitre/scribe on most of the pieces of skirting. If you are doing two such as the front piece where it goes around a projection, you find that by the time you have got the 2nd end right the 1st end no longer fits. Actually you start a scribe with an internal mitre i.e. 135 deg not 45 deg. You then cut with a coping saw around the mouldings and with a tenon saw along the straight bits - perpendicular to the face, along the junction of the mitre and face. Easier than it sounds. Important trick is to 'back off' the cuts i.e. just under 90 deg so that the visible part of the join will be tight. You may also have to fiddle about with sharp chisel, gouge, sand paper, block plane etc to get perfect joint.
cheers
Jacob
PS and fill gaps with putty!
The problem seems to be that you have to put it back in one particular order. Which is a pain, because I'd quite like (through having one side of the room otherwise finished, and the other still needing some work) to put it back in the reverse order. But I don't fancy trying to slide the straight piece under the profiled one.
_You Cant_
I can. Any skilled carpenter should be able to cut a mitre by eye, with only a handsaw pencil straight edge and bevel gauge. Practice that until you get an acceptable finish, then all those mitre saws and jig saw that don't cut in a straight line miraculously start to go were _you_ want them.
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No question that you should mitre the external corners and scribe th internal ones. You'll never get an internal mitre working. So tha means you need to buy a mitre saw AND a coping saw. I'm inclined t agree with what's already been said about the electric vs manual mitr saws. And the profile cut is very easy to do with a coping saw b cutting around the shape revealed when you mitre the skirting.
I wouldn't usually chip in, but I've just bought a house where th previous owner attempted to replace all the skirting using interna mitres... none of it fits. Most of it is loose as he couldn't even ge it to nearly fit! I'm slowly sorting it out room-by-room
-- Fuoleum
Internal mitres are fine if they're accurate and you have the ability to shave a gnat's c*ck off the length i.e. you have an electric chopsaw. I think straight 6" x 1" with a mitred bead on top might be best in this instance. If it's a bay, bear in mind that you'll probably need to cut 2 x 67.5 deg to make the 135 deg angle. 1 x 90 and 1 x 45 will not do :-)
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