The message from snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com contains these words:
Entirely Dribble like in his inability to comprehend the basics of central heating design.
So come on wasteoftime how does replacing a radiator with a towel rail as outlined by the OP provide an opportunity for air to be sucked in that wasn't previously present in the unmodified system?
This group must be the cyber prats drop-in centre.
You are not new to posting on this group. Most people are aware that rubbishing other poster's offerings is a pretty good way to lose credibility. Since it's very often the case that the quality of the advice is commensurate with the good manners of the poster.
The message from snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com contains these words:
In which case you fit perfectly.
Now explain the mysterious way in which your model universe contravenes the rules of physics that govern the universe the rest of us live in.
It probably won't matter a jot if you don't rise to the challenge as you are already irredeemably branded an ignoramus and a coward with it.
I would have thought that finding a pump is easier than moving a tank.
Firstly there are plenty of ways of solving pumping over should it be happening - many of them simpler to implement than moving a cistern. Secondly pumping over and drawing air into the system are separate problems - you may have the both at the same time, but equally can have one without the other. Thirdly why do you think that a radiator change is likely to cause a system to start pumping over? It seems an illogical deduction.
You also failed to identify the most likely problem that could result from the proposed radiator change, and yet seem determined to pursue an unrelated potential problem that that you have no evidence is happening anyway.
Could, might, perhaps, maybe?
In this thread, and the one on dual heating options, you come across rather like a inexperience technician desperately trying to solve a problem which you have not even established is there in the first place. Trying one thing or another without any credible fact finding, logical deduction, or method to your implementation of the solution that would even allow you to verify the effects of your changes.
If you are going to make recommendations such as you have, do you not think it would be useful to find out what type of boiler is in use, and where it is? What type of pump is in use, its location, speed setting? Finally establish the location of the vent and feed/expansion pipes in relation to the pump, and establish if there are any other tell tale signs of a design fault (water dripping from the vent, the sound of air being circulated when the pump first starts etc) that the OP could check.
Armed with the knowledge you would be able to recommending a solution that would have some credibility, rather than flailing in the dark.
As a general point, if you come here looking for assistance from time to time as you seem to, do you think that alienating the other contributors by juvenile name calling and unreasoned argument is going endear them to answering your questions?
Are you agreeing with them? As a pro I doubt you really are.
If you say so. I have met many good mannered con-men too.
The message from Roger contains these words:
I thought you wouldn't rise to the bait.
Even a conman would have trouble if he had to put his con into print so it could be torn apart at leisure. Wasteoftime doesn't even have a plausible cover story.
There are many threads that I look over. I consider whether any contribution from me will enhance the discussion or not. There is little point in either nit-picking a thread that (IMHO) is >90% correct.
The con-men have little to gain in this context. It would need a very convoluted psyche to gain pleasure as a sort of d-i-y-Munchausens-by-proxy con artist.
As far as the specifics of this thread are concerned if the OP is going to have hassle with air lock removal on refilling then IME it makes little difference if the head is 0.3m or 1.3m.
There is a chance that the top of the towel warmer could be operating in a negative pressure condition when working. However the bleed and blank plugs at the top of the ladder are easy to seal well (often coming with preinstalled O-rings).
Done and working. The pipework has been flushed and new rads added (a grand total of 5 including the towel rad in this small house). Every rad bled easily except the front bedroom rad. I nailed that by turning the pump on full and closing all the other rads.
Thanks for the help.
Adam
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