Microporus paint

Where do I buy this from.

Is it only mean't for hardwood

This has been specified on a property I am working on, at was to cover Cedar V groved panneling. I have now been given the go ahead to use softwood instead, don't know wether or not to ask to use ordinary paint as well!

Reply to
Stuart
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Don't use microporous crap, use 'proper' paint (unless it's not your own property, then who cares.)

Reply to
internal audit

You might be better off using something like Sikkens or Sadolin, they do microporous wood stain in a wide variety of colours, and have a helpline too.

If you use softwood then a few generous coats of a suitable wood preserver on all surfaces, particularly on end grain is a very good idea. If you can coat the end grain of the panelling too, even better.

Cheap paint, microporous or not is often a bad idea.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

Personally, I'm going to be doing my exterior woodwork in acrylic (water based) paint. It is used almost exclusively in the US. Most importantly, in five to ten years time when it is time to recoat, it is much easier to lay a new layer of acrylic than sand/strip everything back, like you need to do for solvent gloss. It is also better for the environment, less likely to give you health problems and can be recoated in a fraction of the time.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Sikkens also do microporous paint and it's good stuff. So it should be at £60 for a 5l tin

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Brooks

Reply to
Nick Brooks

As a point of interest I have always used Sikkens/Sadolin on all my external joinery for years, but have always had problems with it failing on the south side of my property after 2 or 3 years (goes hard and starts flaking) despite on one occasion stripping back completely to bare wood and using the full recommended application sequence.

About 6 years ago, against my better judgement and in desperation I tried the Ronseal 5 year water based stain. Its very easy to apply and can be thinned with water for the first coat, and of course cleaning up is very easy. Even in its sixth year it is still looking good - even the sills and other horizontals on the south side of my property. This year I shall be able to redecorate with just a quick rubdown and apply 1 or 2 coats.

So despite all the virtue extolling of the traditional Sikkens/Sadolins, here is one happy user of water based stain.

HTH

Dave

Reply to
Dave Gibson

Is this an interior job? Microporous paint is normally used outside, inside it's unlikely to be helpful. When you use it, it must be applied as a "system", i.e. the primer, under- and top-coat must be porous else the whole thing is a waste of time (it's not *that* good anyway, IMO).

But a stain doesn't preserve, does it?

I very much agree with the latter statement!

that "decoratingdirect" are rather expensive.

If you are treating outside timber, then linseed oil is very good, where appropriate, easily maintainable, and cheap.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

Rubbish, of course you don't need to do that.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

You need to get the horrible peeled up brittle glossy top coat off, which isn't a nice job.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Oh dear Christian, you seem to have encountered a case of poor preparation/practice in painting. This can happen with water or "oil" paints. Nice to see the top coat was still glossy, though! Normally maintenance means a thorough wash down/clean, spot treatment, re-coat.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

Yes, I do like the punishment of buying ex-student terraces that haven't been repainted in decades. At some point I really do need to renovate the windows, which will be a complete removal, strip down, draughtproofing and painting. I might still use a bit of solvent based paint on the window sashes for its greater mechanical resistance where it slides, but I might not.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Ah! sliding sashes?

Not sure it'll make a great difference...

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

Then I definitely won't. I understand you're supposed to wax the actual edges, rather than paint, though.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I've done a few with acrylic, IME it doesn't like the sun or traffic. It's quicker than proper gloss, yes, but harder to use, and comparively un-glossy. OK for a quick in-and-out job, but I would not use it "for me".

I don't put anything on the sides. I don't know whether someone called "Jacob" who posts here does, ISTR he's got a sash window reconditioning bit on his web-site. Worth a look maybe, as are the bods at Mighton Products.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

Yes, I've got a Mighton catalogue. Just a few questions, as you seem to know something about it.

Firstly, can brush seal be used for the vertical sealing as well as the horizontal? They aren't very clear about it.

Secondly, how do you cut the 2mm strip in the non-beaded side of the frame? Do you have to remove the frame panel?

I'll see if I can find Jacob's website...

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

There're some instructions on their web-site which show use quite well -

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the bottom of the page). You could use them, but they really need accurate location with no "slop" which makes them wear them quickly. The best bet is to use their parting bead, and "standard" seal on the top rail, forget about using seal on the staff beads - if you think about it, it doesn't help very much! I don't like fitting seals at the meeting or bottom rails, these normally fit well anyway, and do let pooled condensation drip out. If you're using DG, then OK.

Frame panel? Umm... Do you mean the inside of the outside board that makes up the sash box frame? If I were you, I wouldn't, the plastic parting bead does a fine job.

ISTR he included the URL in a fairly recent post.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

Hi,

Can you remember which particular types these were, also what type of wood were you using them on?

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

Yep, I remember it well. My window frames are standard Boulton and Paul pressure treated softwood. The last time I stripped all the woodwork back to raw using a scraper and sander I used 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS (Teak) followed by 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 (Teak). As I said, the coating started flaking off on the horizontals after 3 years on the south side of the house. I then rubbed it down and applied 2 coats of Ronseal 5 year Woodstain and its still in good nick after 6 years, although I will be applying a maintenance coat this year.

Needless to say I shall never use Sikkens again, I think its overpriced ( although the Ronseal product is not *that* much cheaper ) and overhyped

HTH

Dave

Reply to
Dave Gibson

Sorry to hear that, I guess I will prefer Sadolin in future. Cetol does have a good reputation for UV resistance though. I always though Sikkens were the same company that made Sikaflex, but it looks like they aren't.

cheers, Pete

Reply to
Pete C

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