Masking windows before applying Cuprinol

Windows have to be masked before applying Cuprinol to the surrounding timber planking - and up-to-now I have used some thin polythene from 3M.

Someone told me it's possible to get some masking stuff that you paint on - and then afterwards it peels off. That sounds an excellent idea - because it's really difficult to apply the polythene if there is even a breath of wind.

Do you know what the paint-on stuff is and where to get it?

Reply to
Chris
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With practise you are better off developing a steady hand technique and doing away with the masking tape altogether. Use a decent (Harris?) 1" brush and practise on easier sections before painting up to the glass. You will get a better finish this way anyway because you will avoid the noticeable "step" where you peel away the masking tape.

I can't see the point of paint on masking tape in this application - surely the goal here is to achieve the straight edge that masking tape will offer, but if you're also painting on the masking tape, how will you achieve the straight even edge?

Reply to
Wingedcat

Does that cuprinol set hard like gloss paint? Whenever I paint window frames(gloss paint), I just paint disregarding whether it goes on the window. I leave the paint to go hard for 2/3 days then get a sharp stanley blade, score the paint where it joins the pane and frame then scrape it off, nice clean straight edging around frame.

Reply to
ben

ben wrote: [snip]

Forgot to say this technique takes the hassle out of painting those 15 pane through lounge doors instead of masking them. :-)

Reply to
ben

I thought it was in a light oil like paraffin/diesel. The stuff I have in an old jam jar seems to evaporate eventually. Probably washes off with soapy water.

Rusty

Reply to
Rusty

In message , Chris writes

Do you mean just masking off the glass or the frames as well?

Use thicker polythene sheeting?

Pass, though you can get a paint on masking fluid that model makers use.

Reply to
chris French

In article , chris French writes

Frames as well.

Can do - but expensive. And it's not always easy to stick it on, particularly where it needs to stick to brick.

Reply to
Chris

In my experience, Harris brushes and "decent" are not compataible concepts.

I believe that Harris used to do good products, but after a series of horrid Harris brushes (at high prices), I started buying Johnstone's craftsman brushes. Absolutely wonderful: my 1" Johnstone's brushes are old friends, still going strong after ten years.

I think that Harris must be one of those old names that's been taken over and subjected to maximise-the-profits management.

Reply to
The Pet Human

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