Making small ladders

[ss]

I can reach my 2 storey roof from the top of the ground floor extension, it is only a height of approx 4 feet so was thinking of making a small set of ladders (wooden) to save hauling up another set. It should only be required every few years for maintenance/moss etc. I can make them extra wide for stabilityand measured so they fit in between the troughs of the ridge tiles. Even if I fell off the things it would only be a 4 foot fall. What would be the best way to join the rungs to the uprights to give an element of strength (& safety) I assume just screwing batons on would be too weak, so what type of simple wood joint to add some strength.

[newshound]

I don't think I would bother, more trouble than it is worth. Look at things like cheap loft ladders or those little platform arrangements for decorating. You could always trim them to length, and/or add "hooks" like a roof ladder hook to suit your particular geometry. Being alloy, they will be much easier to manipulate than wood. And assuming your extension has a flat roof with a parapet you can even store them up there without worrying abour rot.

[TMC]

What do you mean by 'they fit in between the troughs of the ridge tiles.'

Is it that you ground floor extension has a pitched roof and you intend to point load your weight on unsupported parts of the roof tiles when you stand on the ladder?

or something else altogether?

[ss]

"> I don't think I would bother, more trouble than it is worth." I have loads of 2 x 2 left over and was thinking of making something from that.

"> What do you mean by 'they fit in between the troughs of the ridge tiles.' >

Ground floor has a pitch roof (not a steep angle) I suppose I would need to spread the load somehow, now that you mention it.

[TMC]

also some method of preventing the ladder moving down the slope?

[ss]

On that subject my son has been up and down this part a few times and ladder doesnt slip, however for me I will make something to hold it fast, should be easy enough.

[TMC]

when asked in the past how I would overcome the problem of access to a roof above a sloping roof my diy theoretical solution was a piece of 18mm ply with a suitable batten at the lower end to retain the foot of the ladder and strong brackets at the upper end to fix to brackets attached to the wall

I use the term brackets very loosely as I did not in the event have to create the item but I suspect I would have used the eye bolts for fencing on the timber and eyebolt anchors in the wall

I have had a quick look as to how the profesionals would do it but have not yet found any method

[NT]

1.5x2.5 (real size, not nominal) makes a good solid ladder. I'm having no luck uploading a pic tho. However you do it, just load it up to triple your weight before using it for real.

NT

[John Rumm]

Well all sorts of exotic options are available, however just planted on the face and nailed or screwed is surprisingly strong.

I built a quick tree "house" (more of a bi-level platform really) for the kids the other day. This was a very quick job (4 hours including buying the timber!) I needed a couple of short ladders, and just used what was to hand - a couple of lengths of 2x2 and 3x2 CLS for the uprights, and some tile batten for the rungs. Slapped it on the face, and popped a couple of 2" ring shank nails in through the face on each end to hold it in place. I was quite surprised how strong the result was[1] - they took my not insignificant weight with no problem. If I were making something for more prolonged adult use I might rebate the rungs into the front of the uprights.

End result:

(that's 6 of 3x2" CLS, and a pack of tile batten - let me know if you want any more construction details and I will add some words to it in the wiki)

[1] I suppose when you think that a battened roof is in effect a simple ladder, and that takes the weight of roofers climbing up with a pile of tiles in hand, it is probably fairly strong.

[ss]

That should be enough info from the pics John, I like the idea of one upright being slightly longer as an aid and ease of access. My weight shouldnt be an issue as under 11st. But will double check before using.

Thanks all for help given.

[Nightjar]

My late father broke his ankle falling about half that height.

Ladder rungs are normally fitted by boring hole through the stiles, tapering that top and bottom, to create an oval hole on the outside, creating a stepped down dowel on the end of the rung with a slot across the protruding dowel, inserting that dowel into the hole in the stile and driving a tapered wedge into the slot to spread the dowel into the tapers, all held together with generous applications of glue. It would probably be simpler to buy a ready made ladder and cut it down into two or more pieces.

Colin Bignell

[fred]

In article , Nightjar writes

A building surveyor and good friend has twice come a cropper with antique versions of this design.

Once was whilst surveying the inside of a steeple with a fixed wooden ladder system in poor light and discovering that on the top section there was nothing holding the uprights together and therefore nothing to stop the rungs popping out, this while alone and 150' off the deck. Ladder was hugged tightly to hold the uprights together on the way down to safety and access padlocked off.

Second was whilst using his late father in law's immaculate antique extending set (apparently his pride and joy) when the very same thing happened but this time it ended with a Laurel & Hardy body wedged between ladder uprights moment. All the wife could say (then and for weeks later) was, "look what you've done to my father's ladders."

And yes, the irony was not lost with an experienced BS a) working alone and b) failing to check the ladders before use, oh, and c) not learning from the previous mistake.

It makes John's simple construction seem like the way to go, my dad made a roof ladder this way many years ago, I think we still have it.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Father had a two section wooden ladder like that. Each rung also had a thin steel rod recessed into the bottom of it. I stepped on it once, and it was obvious I was being supported only on the thin (now bent) steel rod under the rung, the ladder having spent too many decades in a damp garage.

I caught the end of Farming Today on Radio 4 this morning, from the Cornwall Show. It was talking about several traditional trades such as thatching and their apprentices, and happened to mention there's only one traditional wooden ladder maker left (don't know over what geographic region that was).

[Andy Burns]

I got a 'free' wooden ladder with this house, it was OK for a couple of years, but once one of the rungs went (it had a wire supporting them) I sawed it up and lobbed it the skip.

[Phil L]

He means his roof tiles have ridges in them, not 'ridge tiles' :-)

[Phil L]

They'll rot in between use

buy a cheap alluminium ladder and attatch two eye bolts to the house wall 2 courses above the flashing. When you put the ladders up, thread a rope through the eye bolts and lash to the bottom of the ladder to stop it slipping when you are getting on and off the roof

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Andrew Gabriel writes

Ah! Thatching. I think I could just about do it having watched my father as a child.

Getting suitable straw is the first obstacle as modern varieties are too short.

Carding was done with a set of 3" nails punched through a length of batten. Pegs came from Hazel bushes in a nearby hedge. Retaining twine was *binder twine* which just about lasted the winter. Straggly ends were cut using Sheep shears......

regards

>

[Bill Wright]

Ulleys of Sheffield have a workshop for making wooden ladders.

Anyone wanting a short light duty ladder, ask the local aerial rigger. We throw them away as soon as they get too flexible, yet when cut down they are fine.

Bill

[ss]

Thanks for all the replies guys, some differing views on what I should do, or not. It has given me some ideas I had not thought of though so thanks for that.

[AJH]

We sold ash to Gravity-Randall by Billingshurst, the stiles were imported into Shoreham in the round and with bark. The Douglas fir poles enjoyed an exemption, as other timber had to be free of bark, but the local FC had to do a phytosanitary check.

AJH