nightjar While a locksmith could modify the cylinders, it will probably take a day or
Thanks for the tip!!! I just got two six-pin cylinders from B&Q at £13 each to replace the five-pin for my flat and six-pin for the communal exit door, plus in all 14 extra keys (two for one deal at same B&Q). I had it in my head that cylinders were far more expensive, must have been from watching dodgy locksmiths being stitched up on TV...
I fitted a 5 lever high security Yale mortice lock from B&Q for a friend when her last lock jammed. The new lock lasted 2 weeks before it went wrong, preventing her from inserting the key. Took it back to B&Q, they replaced it no quibble.
The new one lasted 24 hours before failing in the same way. Took it back to B&Q, they replaced it again and refunded the £15 or so she had spent on extra keys (from another shop) for each new lock. Brownie points for B&Q in my book.
The latest one has worked OK for a month - fingers crossed.
I complained to Yale via their customer service e mail address, twice, and was completely ignored both times.
Might be worth bearing this in mind if you have a choice of Yale or another reputable make when buying locks.
If anybody from Yale reads this, remember a satisisfied customer tells 3 people, a dissatisfied customer tells 100.
|I fitted a 5 lever high security Yale mortice lock from B&Q
|If anybody from Yale reads this, remember a satisisfied customer tells 3 |people, a dissatisfied customer tells 100.
My local Locksmith CH Wood (Security) Bradford limited 221 Wakefield Road Bradford ... sells me Chubbs. They are so good that all *three* have outlasted the doors they were fitted on, I recovered them and now they sit in my cupboard to await another door. All three have been repaired by C H Wood, or rekeyed when necessary, at very reasonable cost.
This satisfied customer will tell anybody.
The message from Dave Fawthrop contains these words:
You're lucky to have a local locksmith. I can't find one anywhere round here. Plenty of mobile blokes who'll come round in a van and charge you for the privilege, but no shops you can walk in to and buy a proper lock.
Well, I've been able to open supposedly "card proof" Yale locks for years, you need a (very) thin blade with a hard point rather than a card but it's damned easy once you get the knack. Not that a professional thief would bother, you can prise a Yale lock off from the outside easily by applying pressure in the right place because the screw fixings are not adequate. If that fails, then the casting used for the striking plate is pathetic and tends to shatter with a damned hard bang.
I've had to make entrance to several places with Yale locks which have the slider and roller to prevent carding. I've slid back the lock on three and broken two with minimal damage to the door. Much depends on how well the door fits to the frame and most doors schrink somewhat after a few years.
I'm not sure I could still do, I've had no need to practice recently, but I'm sure that the modern yoof can better me time after time.
How do you defeat the additional lock that is engaged when the door is closed. There is a plunger that is pressed in by the striker plate, which locks the blot so that is cannot be moved.
On the BS 3621 model, there are more, and larger, fixings.
Again, it's a different type of casting.
I'm not sure we're discussing the same thing.
Only, IIRC if the user "double locks" the door. If they simply let it slam to as 99.9999% of users do then the punger can be "walked" out of the way by using a pair of picks (think sharp pointed blades as previously described). As the punger is moved the tongue of hte lock will move with it.
If the door has been double locked then this doesn't work as the plunger is locked in position. Then a damned good thump works and it's far easier to do than with a mortice lock.
Not on my lock. The plunger is pressed *in* when the door is closed. It cannot move any further in than it is already. It cannot come out because the striker plate is in the way. IOW, there is no way it can move (or be moved) with the door closed. The tip of the plunger is flush with the 'edge' face of the lock.
Or am I misunderstanding something?
(thinks)
I've seen yale type locks with a secondary moving bolt within the main bolt. Are these the less secure ones?
The ones you're talking about (bob) are the ones I've seen - the plunger looks like a thinner version of the main bolt, just above it, and when the door is shut it rests on the striker plate, ie can't move.
(this isn't the same as the ones I've seen - the little bolt is of the same profile as the main bolt on those)
cheers, clive
|The message |from Dave Fawthrop contains these words: | |> My local Locksmith CH Wood (Security) Bradford limited 221 Wakefield Road |> Bradford ... sells me Chubbs. | |You're lucky to have a local locksmith. I can't find one anywhere round |here. Plenty of mobile blokes who'll come round in a van and charge you |for the privilege, but no shops you can walk in to and buy a proper |lock.
We have no less that *three* *good* Local locksmiths in Bradford Yorks, I use the best, but the others appear fine.
IMO everyone should search out local good locksmiths.
Are you sure you mean the Yale PBS1? Or do you mean one of their pretend locks, some of which have anti-carding features?
Christian.
The problem is that the Chubb equivalent to the Yale PBS1 has some issues. Firstly, it is much uglier, with a very angular appearance and a plastic knob. Secondly, it is much harder for arthritic people to operate, as you have a circular knob, rather than a lever. Thirdly, the anticarding mechanism makes it very easy for the bolt to pop out when the door is open. If the door is slammed in this condition (which is very easy to do), damage could occur.
Christian.
I'm sure it's not mentioned in my policy. And the [toughened] glass shatters so doesn't leave a hazard. If it does mention in the policy though, that is definitely a reason I guess!
In article , Christian McArdle writes
I've never understood why latches need to be surface mounted, dead ugly and the surface mounting can't do the security any good. I recently broke the mould by fitting a Union Mortice Escape Lock in place of a deadlocking latch, it's a sashlock where the latch can be withdrawn by key via a euro cylinder, leave off the handles & you have a deadlocking latch. Deadbolt action on the normal rectangular bolt is via the euro cylinder too, inside action is by a thumbturn on the cylinder. It's not BS approved but I reckon more secure than a rimlock, BS cover is provided by a knee high deadbolt. There's an Assa escape lock too that I think will do a better job, let me know if anyone wants details.
Dave Fawthrop wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Dodgy old area, then? ;-)
mike
Unfortunately the Chubb BS3621 auto-deadlocking rimlock is a bit of a dog. The plastic handle falls off (made of Unstickium) and worst of all, it has a tendency to fire the deadlocker of the main bolt while the door is only partially closed. This makes the door look as if it's locked, but a light push opens it.
It's also damn near impossible to get keys cut for them that work, even from a Chubb specialist.
I've had one for ages and not found this at all. Perhaps it's because it's properly fitted? ;-)
When I got mine I anticipated having problems with spares since the blurb said they couldn't be cut in the normal way. But my local locksmith made me several copies all of which are fine.
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