Log Burner v Multi Fuel Stove FAQ

My logs would balance on top nicely

Indeed. And to too do firebricks, but they are replaceable

We too have a thatched roof. We had the chimney lined to go with the multi-fuel stove.

Our insurers insist the chimney is swept twice a year. We have it done midsummer and midwinter, so it is half way through the burning season. Usually there's not much up there as we burn dry wood.

Getting the fire going I use the bottom vents. It will get going like a blast furnace! Close them once properly lit, and use the top vent as a heat control. There's a "tertiary" inlet somewhere that can't be closed, but it's only a trickle.

As for keeping the glass clean - it doesn't work. Airwash my ****.

Andy

Here, they tend eventually to crack. Whether or not this matters and one should replace them immediatly or whether a 1-2 mm crack doesn't matter, I know not.

It certainly works on our Esse 100. Unless we close the top vent down too much, that is. But we don't, as we always let the fire burn out before going to bed.

Experience says that cracks are OK. It's when chunks fall out the problem starts. You can fill cracks with 'refractory cement' IIRC

Thanks for that.

Being a cheapskate, I use a 'grenade' to split logs (struck with a lump hammer), and a small axe/hatchet to split (straight-grained) firewood into kindling.

You haven’t lived until you’ve tried an X27. Total game changer. ;-) If you’re in Ayr you can try mine.

Tim

If you are fit & healthy & have room to swing it, then an axe may be for you. But £80+ for an axe (probably plus carriage - I didn't check) is 2/3 the price of a log splitter.

I suppose some people must buy them new but all the axes I have known amongst self ,friends and family have been handed down or acquired from one of those rural types who attend village shows etc who sell old tools found in the sheds of the departed for whatever you can bargain for but a lot less than £80.00, even if it needs a new handle and a professional sharpen you can still be quids in with a tool made from decent steel forged in Sheffield .

GH

I know it may be hard to believe but there has been progress in log splitting axe design. A “hand me down” axe is unlikely to incorporate these design improvements.

Tim

I have a splitting maul (not made by Fiskar) but the main reason I don't use it all that much[1], is because my aim isn't quite up to the job.

If the end of the block of wood is of a reasonable size, I can be reasonably sure of not missing it entirely - but striking it in just the right spot is beyond me.

Hence the use of a grenade which I can place 'just so'.