Loft access kit - opinions please

My "loft" is more of a crawl space 1m high but still very usable. Trouble is there is no room for my old 3 section aluminium ladder. I think I have height clearance but no length clearance for the retracted latter to be stored.

B&Q has the following kit with a timber ladder that completely stores within the door.

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's pricey but looks ideal and will fit nicely between the existing beams. I've seen them elsewhere too. Does anyone have any opinions on their quality, ease of fitting, use etc?

Or does anyone have any alternative suggestions. My space between beams is 56mm.

Thanks AA

Reply to
rgdalziel
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I had a similar problem and fitted something like this:

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B&Q style ladder wasn't around then (or at least I didn't find it!) but the concertina style ladder is mounted to a joist rather than the hatch so there's no weight on the hatch and aperture size isn't so critical (I assume you mean 560mm between joists!).

Peter

Reply to
Peter Watson

maybe cm?

Reply to
Malcolm Gray

On Dec 7, 11:39 am, Peter Watson

Yes 560mm, not 56mm! Thanks for the Mackays link, by coincidence they are just round the corner from me in Cambridge and what's more the web site states "Our Cambridge store has a working loft ladders display, where you can try out our range of loft ladders." Nice!

Reply to
rgdalziel

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> It's pricey but looks ideal and will fit nicely between the existing

These can be a fairly major job to fit if your existing loft opening is not the right size.

Your width looks ok but you need 1110mm length. Not many loft hatches that size. Would mean a lot of work to extend.

A concertina ladder could mean no alteration to size of hatchway and very quick install. Examples can be found here

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Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

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As a principle they are good - I have one in the house and one in the workshop and are pretty easy to fix. The easy way is to cut the hole, lift the whole ladder into the roof space and then fit some battens to the ceiling. Drop the ladder frame onto the battens and screw the ladder frame to the joists.

You will need a very small ladder for that dimesnion :-)

Reply to
Andy Hall

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a padsaw or equivalent.

Concertina ladders are usually flimsy, whereas a good wooden one is substantial

Reply to
Andy Hall

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Cutting 4x2 joists not an easy job with a padsaw. Cut and fix a bridle accross joist ends too. I would not want my joists fixed directlty to hatch frame.

I would much rather use a ladder to get into a loft but I have never found concertina types flimsy, just awkward to climb up carrying tools or whatever.

Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

You don't need to cut the 100x50mm joists. The whole point is that the frame sits between two of them. It is likely that the length of the opening needs to be increased by perhaps 200-250mm, but that involves cutting out a piece of plasterboard only.

Exactly.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Assuming the orientation of the joists is suitable - In my case the existing hatch position meant that I needed the ladder to be perpendicular to the joists and I didn't want to cut a new hatch elsewhere.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Watson

You're right, I failed to notice that the OP has 560mm between joists. I was thinking more of the usual 400mm or 16inches. Must pay more attention.

Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

Ah well, different issue

I found the solution useful because the hatch is under a sloping part of the roof and the access to the main parts a little awkward. Not wasting space with having to have somewhere for the ladder to rest is a help as well

Reply to
Andy Hall

Dear AA

I have just fitted an identical one. =A3125 from local builders merchant.

You will need to cut one joist to get the length

I used a cut or sabre saw but once you have cut the plaster it is a doddle to cut the joist with at hand saw and put the old or a new trimmer in to the new lenght 1150 odd

I agree with the chap who posted the message about linings and dropping it in

I am very pleased with mine.

If you like I can send you a photo off line

chris

Reply to
mail

Why? The long dimension of the frame runs parallel with the joists.

Do you mean that you had to cut a noggin (short timber between two joists)?

If so, that doesn't matter because the frame itself, screwed to the joists on either side more than makes up for a removed noggin.

Reply to
Andy Hall

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