Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound? I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application. Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.
What do you reckon?
Anyone tried this?...
Instead of fiddly nailing up different thicknesses of packing. From a low datum
don't forget to "backfill" the large voids with builders foam:
drill hole where there's a void, poke foam gun nozzle through hole squeeze trigger, repeat until the board isn't ringing any more ;-)
What are you talking about?
Rip down ceiling discover joists are not level new ceiling will be wonky need to level/true joists typical method is scraps of wood to achieve this seems like a levelling compound type approach is called for. So... mark joist positions on back of new boards blob of wall board adhesive on marked joist positions offer up board screw till level/true time passes... tighten screws.
comments invited...
Sure..why not? I'd use car body filler..
But scraps are probably quicker...
and levelling compound slumps a little
Board goes up further than you thought
The principle is fine but the consistency of your adhesive would have to be spot on. What happens if you overtighten the screw and then want to loosen it a bit? Will the blob adjust in an orderly fashion? I think I'll stick to scraps of this and that.
The message from Stuart Noble contains these words:
Well, rather a lot, actually. That's rather the idea!
Well no I get where he's coming from, but dry wall adhesive is really stodgy, not like browning, more like porridge. I think it'd be okay in that regard. Thanks for heads up any how Stuart.
quite possibly the worst idea anyone has ever had, you and your house will be covered in adhesive before it's finished and when it is, it will be the worst ceiling in the UK...the main things which will go completely wrong are:
1) When you apply the adhesive and put up the first board, it may (almost certainly will) need taking back down for trimming or re-alignment, this is when half of the adhesive stays on the joists and then later drips off. 2) when you have one or two boards up (with goo betwixt them and joists), the jostling and shoving involved in fixing the rest of the boards will cause aforementioned goo to 'level' on top of the boards, leaving gaps. 3) If everything in the earlier stages goes to plan, when you come to drive home the screws, and the adhesive has set at lots of different heights and levels, the ceiling will look like a ploughed field. other than that, I see nothing wrong with the plan.Seriously though, if the joists are so bad as to need this kind of thing, maybe it's time for new joists? - failing that, cross batten it in the opposite direction and screw the boards to the battens, if it's an upstairs ceiling, it may require additional bracing from above.
========================= I think it would be better to fasten the boards without any attempt to level and then skim for a good finish. That is unless you've got substantial differences inlevel in which case I would long tapered strips of wood rather than small offcuts.
Cic.
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Yeah you're probably right. It was only for a small bay roof not a whole room, but I'll go for the fillets solution. I don't agree with much of what you said but there is nothing wrong with tried and tested, and for such a small area I'll stick with the norm. It certainly won't be a bad ceiling when I've done since I only do a good job, however long it takes.
If it's only a smallish area, your best bet would be to affix a single piece of 12mm plywood over the whole thing and then p-board that, no joints, lumps, hollows or anything else as the plywood will have taken them all...the added bonus is that you don't need to find the joists for the p-board, and every screw is a good fixing which means less sagging/hollowness.
I can't. The overall thickness is critical and 10mm is about all I've got. Window comes up right to ceiling and is original thin frames so will be very obvious if ceiling is lower. No I'm not going to rip out joists. It is an old house and you have to know when to stop ripping out and start making good. Otherwise you've gone and knocked the house down. Thanks for suggestion though!
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