After SWMBO's rearranging the cupboard to the side of the Aga This...
It appears to be from the gland at the top.
If anyone is familiar with these things can they let me know whether there is any chance it may be fixed, or whether its going to be a brutally awkward replacement job with every chance of damaging the pipe going into it requiring demolition of the part of the house it runs through?
Remove the handle/Knob and see if there is a gland nut you can tighten down a bit. On some designs the nut is hidden.
If not you may be able to buy new "guts" for the valve. Or if you can get an identical valve, remove and change the guts while leaving the valve body in line.
The big problem will be how to cut off the oil supply to do this. Maybe you can disconnect the oil line and swiftly put on a cap/plug or tap a wooden plug in the hole. You need to be well organised beforehand to do this and maybe wait until the tank is near MT. (Bucket, gloves, overalls etc Could get messy, try to disconnect outside if possible)
IT's normal for there to be an isolating valve on the oil tank BTW which would solve all you changeover problems.
Hmm, the fire valve is supposed to be outside the building these days with a capillary to an internal bulb mounted in or very near the appliance.
Do you use that as an on/off valve as well? I note that the BES description says it can "... provided it is treated carefully.". I also note it doesn't say anything about OFTEC approval or the standards that the other, admitedly capillary type, fire valves on the BES site have.
I think I would take the oportunity to install a capillary fire valve outside the building and put a proper shut off valve in place of that knackered one inside. Presumably there is a shut off valve at the tank and a filter somewhere? An Aga might not worry quite so much about a missing filter as a pressure jet boiler though.
Thanks for that. I think the wife had banged something against it disturbing the seal.. I worked it in and out a few times and, fingers crossed, its not weeping any more..
but I think your suggestion about replacing the guts is sound.
No problem with cutting off the oil - there's another fire valve in the line a few meters upstream..
There's actually three fire valves on that aga - one inside that has the actuator just downstream of that valve, that valve, and another one with a sensor in the kitchen wall that is located just outside the kitchen door..
Actually - see earlier post, - that's only one of THREE fire valves.
One inside the aga, that one to one side of it and one outside with the sensor in the kitchen stud wall.
TBH I never use that valve even to cut the aga oil off - I used to use the aga firevalve till the wife knocked the tit off it - now I use the one outside..
Other valves not mentioned in the orginal posting. B-) And oil installers are just as big a bunch of cowboys as any other professional installer...
I'm wondering why the sensor vial for the external firevalve is inside the studwall though. Surely that would take far to long to get hot enough to shut the flow of oil off into the building in the event of a fire?
I would try turning the valve off and on a few times.
The valve for the gauge on my oil tank likes to weep. The above treatment usually works.
Some clown with too short a capillary just put it where it reached to.
Ah another install to professional levels of incompetence then.
Actually I aksed the BCO and he said something to the effect that 'it was there to cut the flow of oil if the pipework got really hot. And to allow manual shutting off of the oil OUTSIDE the house' Now frankly there was already the one by the aga and that was where the only hot pipe would be - the rest of the pipe is under screed anyway so really it was pretty much unnecessary anyway. And the pipe goes under an internal doorway so no way was the sensor going to get any nearer to the aga than where it was.
As it is, its a place to cut off the aga just outside the door. And thats handy.
well you can take it up with the BCO then.
I just did what he advised
Hah.
How much of the kitchen would be firmly ablaze before a sensor inside a stud wall did its job?
There's chapter and verse in boiler/cooker regs. Even the destructions in the box say it should be within X-distance of the burner. Preferably on the burner casing, but above the feed/blower/inlet/whatever and in position where the normal heat of operation won't trigger it. It's a common installation fault, to fit one that's too short, but they're available in some quite long sizes.
Most of it.
There's one there, as well. The leaky one.
Which has stopped leaking
As I said, there are three. One senses in the front of the combustion area, one at the side of the cooker and one in the kitchen stud wall.
but above the
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