Last qstn on stringers

[Arthur 51]

Hi all. The wall side string..how thick does this need to be?

Thanks.

Arthur.

[The Natural Philosopher]

19mm=3/4" is generally a sensible size.

[Arthur 51]

Thanks, Nat.

[John Rumm]

Looks best when it matches the other side. 3/4" would be about as slim as you could go and still have enough thickness to include decent rebates for the treads and risers and be able to get tight wedges in.

[Arthur 51]

For a long time I had assumed that rebates are required for treads but as no one had mentioned them in earlier discussions. And even after finding various web sites containing diagrams of stairs I couldn't detect any mention of rebates. I had begun to think they were an outdated method and replaced by simple blocks and wedges.

So if I use a 40mm thick string will 12mm be deep enough for the rebates?

Arthur

[John Rumm]

Many of the web sites you find discuss the open string style more common in the US. The more common fully housed strings we commonly use still work much better if correctly rebated and wedged IMHO.

Some designs use a combination of the two - open strings on the banister side, and closed on the wall side:

So if I use a 40mm thick string will 12mm be deep enough for the > rebates?

Yup. I only had relatively short lengths of unsupported string (5 steps) so used 1" thick PAR stock (so about 21 - 22mm ish in reality), and rebated that for the treads and risers to about half depth. I cut the wedges out of stock that was probably twice that depth since it is what was to hand and made them a little easier to hammer into place.

I did not rebate the string into the plaster of the wall - although you can do if you want to give it extra support.

(I have a bunch of photos of my stairs during construction - I can stick hires versions up for download if that is any use to you)

[Brian G]

Arthur,

The same thickness as the other side (at least one and a quarter inches [or metric equivalent]) - especially if you are going to 'house' the steps and risers into the string and the use wedges to fix (the correct method).

If you intent to simply glue and screw timber 'cleats' onto the strings to support the steps and risers, then you can go a little thinner with the material.

Brian G

[Brian G]

Arthur,

Have a look at this link and be amazed at what this man does with stairs.

G

[John Rumm]

[Arthur 51]

Harrumph! Must admit. He does seem to be a tad better than average.

Arthur