Aren't they a bit of a pain in, say, Victorian homes where nothing is especially parallel/level? I tend to line things up by eye, and try as best as I can to achieve horizontal for things like shelves.
Aren't they a bit of a pain in, say, Victorian homes where nothing is especially parallel/level? I tend to line things up by eye, and try as best as I can to achieve horizontal for things like shelves.
Tripod
Mine only wobbles if you jump up and down near it
Better to leave it unlocked so the self-levelling can do its thing, they tend to flash if the position is too far out for it to cope, the locking is only for when not in use, or if you somehow want to project a straight (rather than level) line without it flashing.
Red ones are generally ok indoors, you'll have to wait until dusk if you want to use outdoors or use a reflective target, green ones look much better never seen one in the flesh.
Try switching to "Measure once, cut twice!" ...
If you need it to be a tight fit, cutting it slightly oversize and then test fitting/knocking it down a touch would be one way.
Or just add that 1mm in the first place.
Or buy a bag of packers
Yup, that is intended to allow the correct measurement be take for both internal and external applications. However it does mean if measuring say the width of an alcove you have to make sure its pushed against the wall rather than pulled from a fixing on it.
Alas many of the laser rules are only accurate to about 1.5mm
Stanley is owned by B&D these days IIRC. So chances are they use it to badge all kinds of stuff sourced from the usual suspects.
You could put my 2.5w blue laser in one, then you could use the burn marks without needing a pencil.
The trouble I see is that they only project a straight line on a wall if they are exactly level. Otherwise the line curves across the wall. I have seen one where you hang it on the wall and it throws a straight line across the wall at whatever angle you twist it to. I think that they are probably easier to use.
Use a detector if the laser can produce a modulated beam.
Bill
I line things up with the nearest vertical or horizontal.
Putting rectangular shelves near a corner that isn't a right angle is a real art :)
But most people's houses aren't as bent as ours.
Andy
I can now report back that finally I went for ...
X-Beam Level (as above):
Measure (finally chose model with better ratings than above):
The cross-beam level has been an almost miraculous help getting the fall right on the tundish outfall in my bathroom, which has to go 2m within the partition wall from the corner where the new tank will go along the length of the bath and then a further 700mm through an old stone wall, and over that distance it has to be accurate to within about 1cm, because it has to be below the attachment points on the tank, have the correct fall, yet has to exit at a minimum height within the room to come out above a lean-to roof outside. The wall section part is proving
*very* difficult, because of the hardness of the stone, and on & off I've been working at it in bouts for days, but I'm very nearly there now.
And Earthquake proof according to the spec! :-)
Apart from anything else, what would be left to measure? Maybe I'll skip on testing that :-)
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