Joints requirements

I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me where I should use each joint type. Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings. I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D

(M = M&T)

A--------B---------------------------B--------A | | | | | | | | | | | | D-------X---------------------------X--------D | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | D ------M M---------D | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | D-------X---------------------------X--------D | | | | | | | | ===================================== (door step)

Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?

Thanks.

Arthur

Reply to
Arthur2
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Arthur,

On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints are mortice and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever moulding you have on the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross halvings'

See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com link:

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'op

Reply to
Tanner-'op

You might find this useful.

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It is still being refined and will be published here in time
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Reply to
Bob Minchin

Not quite sure who you are replying to Bob.

Tried your link but the PDF kept crashing but from what I did see, it was the construction of a door rather than the door frame that I presume Arthur2 is making - and you still wouldn't use "cross halvings" when making a panelled door - but you would get 'gun-stock' stiles on some though!

BTW, if it was directed at me, thanks for the info but I was making those things way back in the mid '60's as a very young apprentice carpenter & joiner - all done by hand at the time (I had a begger of an apprentice master who wouldn't even let me use a mortice machine until I had done 3 years of a 5 year apprenticeship).

Tanner-'op

Reply to
Tanner-'op

To Bob and Tanner-'op. I am using 100mm x 63mm (92mm x 57mm) pre-rebated and with ovolo moulding. On the subject of M & T's I have had replies to posts stressing only the 1/3 ratio. eg, tenon 1/3 thickness of stock. So by this ratio the tenon for the above stock would be 30mm x 10mm because the narrowest part of the stock is 32mm due to the double rebate. ie

+---------------------------+ | | | +----------------------+ | -------------------------- | 32mm wide | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |--------------------------| | | +-----------------------+ | | +-------------------------- + But if the horizontal piece is at right angles to the vertical (re stiffening members at D--M and M--D half way down the door) I believe you could thicken the tenon until the shoulder is only 3/4mm wide and use a tenon approx 25mm square. This will give a greater glueing area.

I would appreciate your advice.

Thanks

Arthur

Reply to
Arthur2

Tanner-'op. I posted the links thinking they might have been of interest to Arthur who I thought was making a door. Maybe he is making a frame? With the evil combination of Ascii art and line wrapping, I've got no idea what you are trying to convey Arthur. I'm only an amateur woodworker and passed on oddments I thought might help. Sounds like you might want to post on a woodworking forum somewhere that supports proper diagrams and where Pro's lurk. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Reply to
John Rumm

Thanks for the reply Bob, and if I seemed a little a little arrogant in my reply to you, please accept my apologies as that was not intended - age has its problems!

Tanner-'op

Reply to
Tanner-'op

Arthur,

Your attempts at ASCII drawing is not very clear and I believe that you are also confused with the 1/3 rule on mortices.

Have a look at this link for the 'thirds' rule:

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it be possible for you to sketch out what you are trying to do on a bit of A4 paper, scan this into you computer and upload the resulting 'photo' to
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and post the link for newsgroups and forums here?

OR, download the free google program Sketchup

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design what you want and then post a link to that here?

Tanner-'op

Reply to
Tanner-'op

John, Whilst I am a member of the team helping on these guides, I can't claim much credit for them My role is as a reviewer from the perspective of an amateur/D-I-Yer. The guides are produced by one or two pros who are keen to help the less experienced but have noted that the same type of questions come up time and time again. Hence the guides are being written around those popular topics.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Hi. I've just realised I was making things too complicated. (overcooking is my forte) I was describing tenons with 4 haunches/shoulders which I'm hoping is not necessary. So taking the section I've described previously 92 x 57 doube rebated. I think I only require a tenon cut across the short width of the section and this will be a 2 sided tenon only? My mortising m/c has only have 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" chisels so the tenon will be

1" thick or 1-1/4"

So I think this what I require,

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square in middle of cross section is end the of tenon.

Arthur

Reply to
Arthur2

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