Jointing worktops in out-of-square room

How far out of square? Often easier to adjust the plaster levels

Use a breakfast bar, or wider, for one length and profile wall edge of that to match the wall. I had worked that out for a worktop fitter, but still he could not see how it would work for a long time!!

It's about 94 as best I can make out. If I chased the male leg into the plaster slightly to make it square, I'd have to move the female cut-out a few mm closer to the corner end, wouldn't I?

A good idea but I already have the bugger and it's been cut to roughly the right length, so would like to make it work if possible.

Measure the angle, or work it out. EG. 2 metres long, 20mm gap at one end, tapering to no gap at other end. Worktop is 600mm wide, so the measurment would be

So you'd need to pack your jig out 6mm at the appropriate end. Easily checked by drawing some lines on the worktop before setting it up.

There will be no problems with mating up for such small angles, if it is going to be tiled afterwards, you can get away with a gap of 10mm or so, though it is not ideal. I aim for a gap of 5mm each side if the worktop is between 2 walls. Alan.

Make an accurate template and cut/joint accordingly.

I guess so IMO the principle with fitted stuff is that you pretend the room is square and then do whatever is necessary to the plaster. Once you start following the wall, there are knock-on effects with base units not lining up etc. If you get those bolted together and against the wall, you get a clearer idea of the angle, and what the options are.

I had this problem but solved it by setting up the base units so they were square, placing the worktop on top, and then fixing the wall.

Some of the plaster had to be cut away and there was also a section where the tiles had a lot of adhesive on their back!

Useful info. Thanks for that.

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.