Joining kitchen worktops

[Dave]

In the next few days I'm going to be joining some worktops. I've got a decent router and bicuit jointer so plan to reinforce the joint with biscuits; edges will be rough cut from the back with a circular saw and then trimmed smooth with the router. I plan to hire (or buy?) a worktop mitre jig - any advice to improve the chances of success?

Dave

[Andy Hall]

I've recently done this to make a desk for my office. I needed to have a section across a corner so it involved joining three sections with 135 degree angles.

I used a DW625 router and long bits, and a jig with the correct postform slots and cutout for "dog bone" connectors.

I think that the following were useful:-

- Router and good quality bits like Freud or CMT to do the cutting. If you have a powerful 12.7mm one, there is no point in the circular saw.

- Mitre jig. As you say either rent one or buy and Ebay afterwards if you don't want to keep it.

- Plenty of clamps to hold down mitre jig

- Flat surface to work on and make sure that sections are properly aligned.

- Biscuits are useful for vertical alignment but are not going to do a huge amount in terms of reinforcement. I used pairs of biscuits at different depths (Lamello joiner or turn the worktop over) and spaced about 150mm apart across the joint.

- Dog bone connectors to pull the joint together. This works well but does not align the worktops vertically. The biscuits do that.

- Once the pieces were cut, I trial fitted them together in the workshop before moving them to the office. I installed the supporting frame (cabinets in the case of a kitchen) and aligned them carefully with a long level so that they were level in themselves and with the adjacent cabinets.

- The worktop can then be fitted into place, biscuits inserted (dry to begin with) and a final check done for alignment and level. Then apply glue to biscuits and mating surfaces. I was using woodblock worktops, so white glue was fine - chipboard might need a different glue. Finally, the connectors can be inserted and tightened to pull the joint together.

[Dave]

Thanks Andy. How easy was it to get the jig in the right place? I was assuming it would come with screw holes so it could be screwed to the underside of the worktops; clamps must be a pita.

Anybody any suggestions on how to guarantee that the joint is sealed?

anybody got a jig to flog?

Dave

[Adrian Berry]

I have a spare Screwfix one, strong tuffnol, in good nick (ie, no nicks in the guide slot!) - it will need some alignment pegs (part number 10918, £3.99 - I could probably pick those up for you). I'm based in NW2 but the jig is in SW19... If you want to make me an offer... ;-) (phone is 07779

263595)

The best way to seal a joint is to use a colour matched combined sealant/adhesive such as Colorfill (available in a vast range of colours from worktop supplies and in a more basic selection from larger DIY shops) (see

)

I have also used ordinary glued biscuit joints and run a bead of coloured silicone sealant around the edges so it squeezes out and then cleaned up the mess with solvent (the Colorfill one is great, white spirit suffices in a messy sort of way). This works well for black, brown and other common colours of silicone. It is much cheaper and the coloured silicone may well be usefull sealing the worktop to the wall or cabinets.

By the way, when sealing between a worktop and tiled splashback, I prefer to cover the worktop with strips of hardboard covered in clingfilm. The worktop, hence hardboard, should be set dead level and tiles can be set from this datum. The board protects the worktop from tile adhesive, sharp cut tiles and careless tilers and as the adhesive doesn't stick much to the clingfilm, the whole lot can be slid out when the tiles are set solid (and grouted if you prefer). This leaves a nice 3mm recess which takes a bead of sealant much more effectively than just running it along a rightangled join.

Other points when cutting the mitre - use a sharp, quality cutter, work in small passes, run the bush against the "waste edge" of the jig's slot until you have cut all the way through and then a nice smooth pass along the good edge to finish the cut. Practice on some scraps if you have the luxury of spare material. Lastly, remember there will be huge amounts of dust from routing the chipboard core so take precautions to protect your health and your workplace.

Good luck! Adrian

[Michael Chare]

I hired a trend Jig for kitchen worktop (with router) You need the guide for the router that makes it follow the slot in the Jig.

The Jig let me cut T slots for clamps to hold the two halves together.

I used the Trend coloured glue/sealant.

Also: Ear defenders for the router, and tolerant neighbours if working outside!

I read the Jig instructions on:

[Andy Hall]

Very - most of them locate with pegs

You could make holes for screwing down, but obviously not if you rent the jig. I already hae a bunch of clamps anyway for woodworking but three or so cheap G clamps or similar would be fine.

Silicone sealer in the joint

[Dave]

Thanks for the advice Adrian, which jig have you got? I've got some 650 tops so need the 18953.

Dave

[Adrian Berry]

Hello Dave,

From memory, it is the same as 18953 except that it lacks the rectangular cutout (is that just a carrying handle?) It certainly will do 650mm and I think it will do 700mm. I will pick it up when I'm next down in SW19 and send you a photo (maybe Friday, else early next week) Where are you based?

Adrian