Joining 4mm flex - connector?

I need to permanently join two lengths of 4mm (32A) _flex_, but cannot find a suitable connector on RS or Screwfix. Soldering/tape/heatshrink is not an option - this must be done using a professional, approved connector.

One option would be to use BS4343 industrial plug/socket, but a) they're big and ugly, and b) I don't need the join to be disconnectable.

Also considered using a 32A T&E joint box. Although the application will involve very little cable movement once installed, I'm unhappy about the lack of strain relief.

RS has part number 490-677, but this is only rated to 2.5mm/20A.

Any suggestions, please?

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson
Loading thread data ...

Buy a single piece of cable. Keep the original bit for somethig else.

What are you doing with (presumably) a long run of flexible 32A cable?

Reply to
dom

Lee Electrics - the film lighting people - use a flat plug and socket arrangement which is probably as neat/small/robust as any available, and is available for various high current flexes, including 45 amp.

Trouble is I can't remember the make or where you'd buy them from. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Do you actually mean flex or is this T&E cable?

Dave

Reply to
gort

Approved by whom? A professional permanent joint can be made using in-line insulated crimp connectors, with heatshrink over the individual cores, then adhesive-lined heatshrink overall.

The Bulgin "buccaneer" IP68 connector range (available from RS) is smaller and less ugly, although still demountable.

Is a resin-filled cable jointing kit (as usually used for underground joints) an option? Something like RS 441-0164, adapted for non-armoured cable?

Reply to
Andy Wade

What about either a through-way conduit box, or a small adaptable box, fitted with glands, and terminal strip inside?

However if the flex is pulled the box will drag or catch against things, increasing the liklihood of strain/damage to the flex in the vicinity po the box. This might cause a high resistance fault leading to localised heating and risk of fire.

The professional, approved way, is to replace the flex, or to install new permanent wiring such that the flex does not need to be extended.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

In article , gort writes

Flex, which is why I underlined it in my original post.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

Soldering and heatshrink sleeves on the cores are fine, so long as you enclose the finished product in a box with clamped cable glands for stress relief.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

On Sat, 08 Jul 2006 15:49:21 +0100, Andy Dingley had this to say:

Nah - chocolate block and Sellotape (or Elastoplast).

:-)

Reply to
Frank Erskine

Fair enough, underline not very clear here.

Dave

Reply to
gort

The message from Frank Erskine contains these words:

Couldn't you just bend them up and drop a yoghurt pot on top to keep the rain off?

Reply to
Guy King

This is uk.d-i-y, not electrical-contractor.net ;-)

Owain

Reply to
Owain

The message from Owain contains these words:

You mean we have to knit the yoghurt first?

Reply to
Guy King

Pot Noodle pots are more substantial plastic, and good for up to 25mm conductors.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Thanks for the replies everyone :-) With some fiddling, I was able to replace the entire cable run as suggested by one respondent. Had I not been able to do this, I was going to use a plastic surface-mount backbox and 20mm cable glands for strain relief, with a chocblock inside to make the connection and a blanking plate as a lid.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

In article , Andy Wade writes

BS for the connector.

The insurers that my employers use.

Unacceptable for office/work environment.

Thank you, yes, I took a look at those but dismissed them. They seemed too much of a bodge for an appliance with a captive flex used in an office.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

On Sat, 8 Jul 2006 15:21:12 +0100 someone who may be Mike Tomlinson wrote this:-

Underlining something is pointless. Newsgroups tend to ignore such unnecessary overheads in favour of the content that plain text provides.

Reply to
David Hansen

On Sat, 8 Jul 2006 22:19:06 +0100 someone who may be Mike Tomlinson wrote this:-

Good. In an "office/work environment" the way to make such a joint in a "professional, approved" manner is not to make the joint.

You didn't tell us very much about the circumstances, so it is difficult to take the discussion much further. However, I'll guess that some piece of equipment is being moved and someone doesn't want to pay to have the socket it is connected to moved. Rather they think they can save money by having a cable tucked under the carpet. Such "economies" are a good way of burning the place down.

The correct way to do this sort of thing is to move the socket into a suitable position. This might involve converting the original socket into a box and jointing new cable from there to the new socket position, alternatively running new cable to the distribution board.

From a mechanical point of view, flex run over floors will be abraided by feet, cabinets and so on. Joints suffer particularly from damage. The end result is the possibility of tripping, fire and electrocution.

From an electrical point of view, long lengths of flex may not be adequate. As well as fire this raises the possibility of the equipment being damaged due to electrical faults or undervoltage. The manufacturer may well have stated a maximum length of flex for these reasons.

Reply to
David Hansen

Presumably this is a single piece of equipment with a load greater than

13A, and on its own circuit?

Like the previous poster says, the correct solution is to extend the fixed wiring. Ideally with a new run from the distribution board. Long flexible cable runs can be prone to damage.

Whilst I wouldn't comdemn "less than ideal" solutions in your own home, where it can be certain that you check it regularly and everyone in the household can be made aware, the same thing really is a bodge too far in a work envrionment.

Reply to
dom

With some newsreaders the method Mike used changes the colour of the word

- but it's not universal. Personally I prefer the use of this to

*emphasise* a word.
Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.