Is there a tool to assist *threading* cable ties?

[T i m]

<snip>

The problem with that is the cable tie might try to come out inwards. If the channel was open at the top or bottom, it would be more likely to stay in the channel because the cable tie wants to go straight?

With the right design of tool and length of tie, you could have the catch end of the tie held in place and you then just need to guide the open end though the catch then once through, lift / drop the tool off.

Well, if you don't make something, Dragons Den here I come. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[Harry Bloomfield, Esq.]

Tricky Dicky was thinking very hard :

U tube which is a channel, open along the inner radius would do that.

[Martin Brown]

Bend something suitable out of warmed Perspex or other thermoplastic offcut with a couple of self tappers in to make a guide.

[Tim Lamb]

I have two versions. Both magazine types. The clips are supplied in strip/cassette form and slot into a spring loaded holder.

The tool jaws are shaped to pick off the next clip and hold it while you get the job positioned. Squeezing the handles further, squashes the clip into a ring.

>

[SH]

I've done this before..... the trick I do is:

Fold into a V the end of the cable tie so you then have a V shaped hook on the end of the cable tie so it looks like a V on the end of an I.

Insert V end of the I end into one wire fence hole. Move & rotate so the end of the cable tie is in the adjacent hole. Then use your fingers or a pair of pliers to then pull the cable tie round.

Then either straighten out the V or cut it off at the acute angle apex.

Jobs a good un.

[SH]

and if the ring is a loose fit, you can then thread the cable tie through the hog ring to then attach said cable(s)

[Paul]

I sew hardware cloth, with galvanized wire. I've done hardware cloth "boxes", by sewing the corners or the things I want to join, and then they hold their shape reasonably well. I stock several sizes of galvanized wire, and the thinner stuff is for sewing projects.

Galvanized wire is UV proof.

To make a hardware cloth box, you don't start with six squares and set to work. You make the usual cross shaped pattern of squares, to minimize the number of seams needing sewing. And leave a little slack, to maybe bend over the edges for reinforcement. I might build a hardware cloth box, for something needing to be mouse-proofed.

Paul

[Fredxx]

You can try this:

You will not like the price!

[fred]

+1+1

[PeterC]

Need to hire one though - keeping one, unless indigenous, is expensive and has a best-before limitation.

[PeterC]

If still available, the coated wire frome Wickes is very good.

's easy to cut and bend; also seems to be galvanised. I put quite a lot on a wall about 10 years ago and there's no sign of rust. Bizarrely, the link is for 20m at £10; also has 100m for £9.50!

[Chris J Dixon]

The 100 m is thinner wire:

Chris

[Brian Gaff (Sofa]

I remember talking to somebody about this very subject. The person in question said that what you need is what I use at home when I have to run a cable. What is that I said innocently, My wife on the other side of the fence he said... Brian

[Richard]

:)

[Andrew]

Use short lengths of copper core from scrap 2.5mm t&e. Thats what I use for supporting rambling roses and loganberry shoots. Doesn't seem to harm the plants.

[AJH]

This is what we used to do when refitting ties to tree tubes (AKA Tuley tubes), a sharpened galvanised bucket handle bent the wrong way into a tighter bend, pierce the corrugated plastic either side of the stake and feed cable tie through channel.

I am not a fan of these things as they generally get left littering the countryside but from the late 70s a lot were used and still are.

[PeterC]

Ah, didn't spot that. Wasn't really interested in 100m - a 20m roll lasts me a long time.

[PeterC]

I'd leave the insulation on it so as to spread the load a bit.