Is it me or the paint?

[Grant Fitzgerald]

I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint, using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor to ceiling strokes. Each section slightly overlapped the preceding section. I am pleased with the finish although when I place a lamp at one end of the wall and look along it from the other end I can see vertical lines where the paint slightly overlapped between sections.

What I'd like to know is - is this avoidable? I think my technique is OK and I seemed to be keeping a wet edge at all times. Maybe a different type of paint would help? My wife thinks I'm mad because it looks great apart from when the light is shining at a shallow angle, but I just want to do a good job. If the overlap marks are always going to be visible under these circumstances, then fine, I will happily move on and finish the room but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to avoid this. Maybe I'm just too fussy?

[Bob Mannix]

You don't say how many coats you used, the implication being only one. You would need two coats to avoid the problem. In addition you should use a combination of horizontal and vertical strokes, finishing with light vertical strokes if you wish, feathering the edge of each section as you go (ie not leaving a clear edge).

[Grant Fitzgerald]

Thanks for your advice. The wall in question has recently been replastered and I have done one coat with thinned "new plaster" paint and a second coat with unthinned paint. Do you think another coat will help me get a better finish?

[Christian McArdle]

Personally, I use random rolling to avoid any patterns. I also use high quality trade paint, which usually covers better than the consumer versions.

There is no hint of strange markings, even though I have only the sealing coat (in white) and a coat and a half of the colour. I usually intend to do

2 full coats, but the trade paint is so good that I can't often see the point, except in occasional spots.

BTW, I don't paint in sections. I cut in first and then roller the whole wall. I find I can roller an entire wall in about 2-3 minutes, working rapidly with a roller on a telescopic pole and standing 2m back from the wall.

Christian.

[Grant Fitzgerald]

2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!

[Bob Mannix]

Yes, I wasn't counting a "new plaster" coat which you have done as I would. Do make sure (as the other poster has also said) you randomise the rolling. It's a matter of personal preference how you do this. I ten to think of a square I am going to fill and then roll diagonals, zig-zags, etc, finishing with light pressure horizontals and very light verticals, always making sure the new edge is feathered rather than defined.

If you don't do another coat it will always annoy you (even if no-one else notices - the price of DIY)!

[Bob Mannix]

Don't worry - he's a show-off ;o) . Having said that, it is true the less sections dry before you overpaint the adjoining one, the better. Christian may be using an automatic feed roller - if not he has to be doing it in "sections" as he has to stop to put more paint on and that defines the section.

It is most important in decorating to go at your own pace and not someone elses! I NEVER consider having anyone pasting while I am hanging paper, it would drive me mad. Get everyone out the house, get the radio on and do it at your pace.

[Christian McArdle]

The cutting in takes longer, though. Maybe 10-15 minutes to do all the corners and up to the skirting/cornice/architrave per wall.

One coat of paint for an entire room takes 45 minutes to an hour, excluding the ceiling.

Christian.

[Christian McArdle]

Nah. Quite the opposite, it's just that I can only afford a house with small rooms!

Christian.

[Grant Fitzgerald]

Or I could c*ck up the second coat as well!

Thanks, Bob and Christian, for your advice - I'll do a second coat at the weekend.

Cheers, Grant

[Bob Mannix]

If you want a laugh, a long time ago I painted my name and my wife's name (aaaah) on the new dining room plaster wall after ceiling coats to dry the roller.

You could still see it at low angles after MANY coats of paint (grrr.)

Bob

[fred]

Turning down the central heating (and off in the room your painting) will give you a longer working time. Keeping a wet edge is def the trick but contrary to some others I've never done anything but up and down strokes.

[Grant Fitzgerald]

The central heating was off (and the radiator in the room I'm painting is off the wall just now anyway). There is a door into the garden from this room which I had open to get the temperature down as well (although now I'm thinking that a draft into the room may have been helping the paint to dry more quickly?). Another problem might be that the wall opposite the painted one is almost entirely window and it was quite a sunny day...

[zymurgy]

Heh Heh,

You're not alone. Took me ages to do my wall with Dulux Once (as it needed to be done twice ;)

Cheers,

Paul.

[Stuart Noble]

Try another brand. I've had nothing but trouble with Dulux emulsion over the last couple of years. IMO Crown is a better consistency and dries like paint should. Dulux behaves like someone's stirred a bag of plaster into it.

[Christian McArdle]

I've had no trouble with Dulux Trade and used Supermatt and standard Vinyl Matt. In fact, it was lovely paint to work with.

I'd use Supermatt on new plaster and standard on old.

Christian.

[chris French]

In message , Christian McArdle writes

I used Dulux Trade, Dulux 'diy', Crown and Homebase emulsions in decorations last year. I found they all worked well TBH.

[Holly, in France]

As others have said, a second coat will usually sort it out. I always get left with the painting and varnishing jobs and I don't usually have any problems. But....I have one wall in one room where I have exactly the same problem. It has now had four coats, with a change of paint for the last one, and I still can't get rid of the marks. The light is from a velux window almost above your head as you walk in the door, and the wall runs away from the door on one side. I'm fairly sure it is just the odd angle of the light that does it. Anyway, I have given up and put a chest of drawers half way along the wall :-) So, it might not be you or me OR the paint, it might be the light's fault

HTH

-- Holly, in France. Holiday home in the Dordogne, website:

[Vera]

I would expect it to take me about ten mins tops to roll the wall but longer (20 minsish) to do the cutting in.

I would never roll in straight lines. Load the roller, do a W on the wall and then over roll in all directions till it starts to feel sticky. Then do the next bit.

[Grant Fitzgerald]

For each section I was painting a W on the wall and then rolling in all directions. I was only rolling vertically when doing my light finishing strokes for each section - do you think this is a bad idea?