Internal walls of a bare brick shed - paint?

Have you considered drylining with some insulation ?. Even 25 mm of 'Celotex' overlaid with OSB3 makes a lot of difference.

I'll think about it but I would like to maximise the space if possible. There's insulation in the roof space already (which I will probably renew with some leftover insulation I've got in the garage from the extension years ago).

Michael

I used Sandtex

I will second the insulation suggestion.

My workshop has 2" celotex equivalent all over with a 1/2" ply lining. The "feel" of the space is just *so* much nicer than that of the adjoined but uninsulated garage of the same construction. Even if unheated at the time, walking from one bit through the door to the other bit is very noticeable.

If the bricks are sound just paint it with a masonry paint after cleaning. Use a smooth masonry paint and not a textured paint.

If the brick face is dusty after cleaning then perhaps a dust seal product applied beforehand.

Is that a standard plywood boarding rather than any form of plasterboard? Would you recommend 1/2 inch as the necessary minimum to act as a load-bearing wall for attaching cupboards etc, rather than trying to rely on deep fixings through into the brickwork?

Thanks for all the comments, folks.

Michael

Thanks, It may be that I end up insulating three out of four walls and painting the other, so I shall bookmark that link for later.

The pointing looks mostly to be in reasonable shape - it's just the filth, mouse poo and cobwebs that I need to get rid of and a lot surface dust.

Michael

Yup I used 1/2" shuttering ply, since it was cheap and I was going to paint it anyway.

With ply you have the option of doing both. So lighter weight stuff you can just screw straight to the ply - for most things this is adequate I find. I think 1/2" is probably the realistic minimum for hanging stuff on though. You could probably go 9mm or 3/8" if fixing to studs on 400mm centres, but was not using studs, just directly fixing the ply though the foam, so there are no thermal bridges (other than the screws).

For things like my timber rack, or the main set of tool shelves that carry heavy loads, I used 5" screws through the board and insulation and into the blockwork. (and made sure there was a reasonable length of upright so as to give a bit more mechanical advantage over the twisting moment of the load.

Broom, vacuum, and if its still flaky, then a big roller with some dilute SBR :-)

pressure wash: exteriors grade paint