Just fitting a B&Q "special order" oak door. can anyone point me in the direction of a recommended wax or oil to finish before final hanging? Seems some form of wax applied with fine steel wool is a favourite, but which wax form where? How many applications etc.?
Cheers Pete
Snipped. Going it a bit with those links weren't you?
As it is inside you can use almost anything. I'd steer clear of silicon stuff or sprays as you can't tell if they have water in.
You CAN tell there is iron in steel wool though, so don't use that. Just brush on some Johson's beeswax if that is still available. The nice lavender smelly one. Lard it on and let it soak in. You can polish it up to your heart's content any time you like.
Sand it down with fine corundum green or red paper whilst it is on trestles. Coat one side after dusting and turn it over for the other. Oak will even pick up fingerprints IIRC. The fine sanding is to remove any grease, base (alkali) or water spots. I could suggest a coat of 50% varnish in alcohol or turps first but there is no real need indoors, unless you can't be talked out of using steel wool.
I've used this for most of my interior oak joinery:
For a door, three coats should be used. Do a light sanding and tacking first.
For the first coat, apply reasonably liberally with a brush, leave 10 mins and wipe off the excess with a rag. Leave 24hrs and repeat but being more sparing, again wipe off. Leave a few days and apply a third coat, again wiping off.
Don't on any account use steel wool on oak. Small threads will be left behind and will blacken with the tannin of the oak.
This will give a matt to satin finish.
If you want something with a higher shine, then a stain and shellac finish followed by wax would be a good option.
All other posts give excellent advice. Especially the issue of any steel product with oak (if I want a distressed oak look then I use rusty water to do it... but I personally dont like the look), boy does it turn black.
I like to use danish oil on my kitchens and then briwax afterwards. A few coats of danish oil using same instructions as described by previous member for his chosen wax. Then rub briwax on with a cloth and buff, then do another wax coat and buff again, the more elbow grease the better... I use a pineapple brush on my power drill, but for a one off the elbow is just as effective.
Calum Sabey (NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)
I'll skip the steel wool then :¬)
I was just returning one of the dodgy doors to B&Q and was looking at their oils and stuff. Wondered whether worktop oil would be any good.
Seems everyone has their favourite combination of waxes. Danish oil seems easy to find everywhere. Is Briwax just another brand name for beeswax products or does it have extra bits?
Depends what it is. I don't like using finishes where I don't know the ingredients
Yes it is and is good. However, it produces a higher level of shine than oil and wax so you need to decide what effect you want.
Briwax is made by J.W.Bollom, Beckenham, Kent. The mid-brown shade known as P7 has always been the trade favourite, especially up Newark way. Rumour has it that it contains bitumen, which accounts for the unique colour. Like most furniture waxes, I think it's roughly 50% paraffin wax, 25% beeswax, 25% carnauba, which is reckoned to give the best balance of qualities. The "original" formula is toluene based which means it goes off very quickly and generates a shine more easily than the enviro-friendly version. On dense material it gives a good finish without sealing
It was Sadolin worktop oil but even their web-site gives no clue about what is in it.
:¬)
Tnks to all for the ideas and replies. Cheers Pete
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