Just done exactly that.
Removed a steel (1950s) Crittal window. (Easy once you realise how they are fixed in) Fitted a quality DG window into the aperture, (£130 for 110 x 990mm) including fitting the glass within the frame correctly and aligning. Made good and sealed.
All done, 6 hours and a few more rendering the sill and surround where some of the render/pointing was damaged and loose.
As for the insulating, sounds like the room need a vent rather than cladding.
See post above.....
Brickwork won't move unless it's *really* blown. If in doubt cut a peice of 4 x 2 to wedge under the top brickwork above the window to "secure" if while working. If any doubt about interior stability use a short acrow with some protective timber between it and the decor and you will be fine.
I don't like windows in bathrooms, they are a pain and unnecessary this day and age, my advice ie to remove it and replace it with a high insulation panel of some kind not forgetting to build in a fan, then insulate whole wall as others have suggested. Don
I think I am getting confused here.
You put the prop in, remove the window, and find the brickwork really blown.
You can't just bung a cheap white window in and expect it to take the load of the blown brickwork. So TMH would be in the position of having to rectify the blown brickwork... Which is probably something he does not wish to do.
Plus, the so far unmentioned, wouldn't TMH either have to self-certify (like Fensa - but only if he were suitably approved) or get BC approval for a change of window? Which would be a big burden to take on.
My take is that, given the issues above and of making good, it would probably be best to get a third party to replace the window, then for TMH go in and do the wall. Preferably immediately afterwards. Or, as suggested earlier, go for secondary DG.
a) Older timber ones can be. b) Even if there is a lintel (particularly a timber one), you might find the window frame was supporting it rather more effectively than the surrounding brickwork.
So be prepared when you take out an old window.
I used to deal with legal liability claims made against a major double glazing firm. "window frames aren't load bearing" may be the general rule but should not be considered to be free of exceptions. Acrow props and thousands of pounds come to mind.
My thoughts exactly.
In the case of upvc, "doing windows" means carrying a whole host of ancillary bits and pieces that aren't easy to source outside the trade.
In this day and age, why have windows anywhere? More room for plasma screens.
To TMH
Without wishing to tell Grandma etc etc..... If you go down the route of involving a window installation company, make sure you are clear on lines of responsibility.
Either the window guys work for you and you take responsibility for the quality and after sales complaints OR And this is probably the better route - You make it well clear to the house owner that you are introducing the company only and that their dealings will be direct with window installer (particularly in the event of future complaints).
Phil
Made us laugh!
In this day and age there is no need for noisy fans that need electricity and get dirty - just open the bathroom window.
However the bricks that will move are only those that form a triangle above the opening, not the entire wall above the opening. There may well be a lintel or brick arch in place.
This is the real bug bear. The job is simple provided you have a bit of common sense and knowledge but the paperwork/approvals/BC etc gets in the way. As you say get the window replaced by someone trusted/known to do a good job and with the relevant approvals (FENSA etc), then pick up the rest of the work.
IIRC no mention of ventilation in this bathroom, if there isn't any putting an extractor in would help a great deal but insulating the cold wall(s) would do a lot for comfort. Did the end wall of the lads bedroom with just two sheets of combined plasterboard/insulation (25mm of insulation) spaced 1" from the wall on battens and it made a really noticeable difference to the comfort of the room.
Yep..
What about all the FENSA paperwork essential if you want to sell the gaff anytime?..
A friend of mine has just installed a large plasma in his flat but, as he needs to sit halfway down the garden to get far enough away to watch it, he needs to keep the windows.
FENSA? Ah yes, I remember that from the heady days of the property boom.
My brother had same type of situation in his kitchen, single skin wall extension and metal framed single glazed window.
He used insulated plaster board (50mm insulation) screwed to the wall. British Gypsum board available from Travis Perkins I think.
Fitted secondary plastic glazing sheeting (Wickes ?) until he could afford/get round to replacing the window properly.
Before the insulatingplasterboard was fiited he suffered horendous mould and condensation problems on this wall, despite having an extraction cooker hood and separate kitchen extractor fan.
I would have thought that was obvious.
A bathroom on occasions has saturated air in it, even a DG window will have water condensing out on it.
More room for plasma
No, more room for a large heated mirror wich will make your bathroom look twice as large.
on
Hard luck if he's installed it in his bathroom, I assume he has obscured glass in the bathroom window.
>
Just need to add a tiny camera, and your plasma screen becomes a large heated mirror...
But it will be a wrong-way-round mirror! (In the left-to-right sense.)
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