Insulating a shed/workshop

I'm thinking of having a custom workshop/shed built, 14Ft x 9Ft.
The shed will be built with 3" x 2" framing with an apex roof. I will be dealing with the insulation myself.
Which is the best method for this? fibreglass or polystyrene between the framing and either plywood or un-skimmed plasterboard for the walls?
The finished interior will have an emulsion paint finish.
I suppose plywood would provide a better finish (no taped joints) but plasterboard would be cheaper and easier to install.
Suggestions and opinions please.
PS
In an earlier thread someone mentioned insulating flooring from Costco can anyone elaborate?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Count de Monet wrote:

Look at insulated plasterboard.
http://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/Plasterboard/Thermal-Laminate-Board.htm
Shows a few different types. The thicker ones approach the insulation of 100mm thick lightweight blockwork with a cavity.
--
Tciao for Now!

John.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I'd certainly go for plywood behind the workbench (assuming you have these) so that you can put up hooks, etc. Or stirling board to save a bit of money?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 13:13, Count de Monet wrote:

Nice (but too small ;-)
(I know I built one a tad under that size - and it was too small. So I have one that is 12x17' now, and that is also too small! ;-)

Interior lining of ply is better IMHO, it makes hanging and fixing stuff later so much easier. For insulation, seconds of PIR foam will give you the best bang for you buck probably, but polystyrene will work quite well in a sheltered location. My original one was 50mm poly insulation, and that was cheap and easy to heat, and comfortable to work in.

Yup, something light helps bound the light around as well.

There is not that much in it... cheap shuttering ply works as a lining, and once given a couple of coats is adequate.

This was my first attempt:
http://www.internode.co.uk/workshop/phase3.htm
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Ohhhh - fabulous! Exactly what I need to give me inspiration and motivation for a forthcoming project in 2011! Thanks John.
re the insulation, Count da Money: don't know how much use this is to you, but recently I insulated _the roof_ of a freezing garage for a friend (she was using it as a workshop) by (1) filling between the rafters with the extremely cheap (1 a roll) insulation from B&Q) (2) Sealing that insulation in by nailing[1] extremely expensive Celotex boards (17.50 a sheet, 2400x1200x25mm) to the rafters. This gives double insulation, and a spectacular silver ceiling, which makes the garage much brighter.
John
[1] Used clout nails combined with "penny washers".
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 16:54, Another John wrote:

I've found seconds of 50mm Kingspan for 10/sheet but you have to collect from mid-wales
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 19:21, nicknoxx wrote:

There is also a supplier in Benfleet[1] in Essex that does 8x4 seconds at about 12, and new at 14/sheet in 50mm. Discounts if you order a van load at a time.
[1] http://www.apinsulation.co.uk /
Nice folks to deal with - you get the best price first time every time, so no need to haggle!
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 16:54, Another John wrote:

Here's mine http://www.flickr.com/photos/28412774@N07/sets/72157625522920528 /
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 19:22, nicknoxx wrote:

Much more useful size ;-)
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 16:43, John Rumm wrote:

Interesting, what was the approximate cost of the project?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 17:40, Count de Monet wrote:

From memory (twas a while ago now!) about 1200 for the workshop, of which approx 200 was for the electrics. That did not include the concrete slab though (which was done as part of a larger garden hacking about project).
There is a materials list here:
http://www.internode.co.uk/workshop/tips.htm
If I were doing it again with what I know now, I would use PIR foam in place of poly since I have a local supplier that does it cheaply. I would use a couple of layers of torch on felt for the roof rather than titting about with nail prep and bonded layers.
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Where's the broadband connection?
--
Adam



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 15/12/2010 19:45, ARWadsworth wrote:

It was just inside the door to the left! ;-) (I ran a CAT5 down there later for phone and data - at the time I never got round to connecting up the data as there was nothing in there to use it, the phone was on the PABX though so you could ring for "shed service" ;-)
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My workshop will be for building and repairing computers. There will be a lot of wiring of different types (mains, data, alarm etc) so on my case fibreglass insulation would seem to be the better option.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 17/12/2010 16:59, Count de Monet wrote:

PIR Foam will give much better insulation for a given thickness, and also does not have the same problem. Much nicer to work with as well.
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 17/12/2010 21:04, John Rumm wrote:

Spray or rigid?
Is PIR more expensive than the other two options?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/12/2010 10:12, Count de Monet wrote:

Rigid, foil faced - celotext, kingspan or one of the many clones.

Its more expensive than poly - but if you can find a source of seconds etc, then not much so - perhaps 50% more. Say 12 - 14 per 8x4 2" thick sheet compared to say 8 for poly. However you only need about half to two thirds the thickness to achieve the same insulation value as poly or mineral / glass wool. So in real world cost terms its the same or better, plus you lose less space.
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/12/2010 15:23, John Rumm wrote:

I'm leaning towards insulated plasterboard (taped and painted) fixed directly to the batons. This will give me room for services to be installed in the normal way without fear of contact (cables ETC) with the insulating material.
I will know where fixing points are so no problem there. As the workshop will only be used to build repair & computers I only need a good bench and shelving so the likelihood of punching holes in the plasterboard are remote. I already have a small shed for storage of garden equipment ETC
I will use a length of dado trunking at the back of the bench to provide power and data services and a couple of sockets elsewhere for general use.
The electrical consumer unit will be flush and the alarm box surface mounted as will an electrical heater and ceiling lighting.
I intend to fit a second hand double glazed door and window (abundant on fleabay) as I think this will give better insulation and security (have you seen the cops trying to break down a DG door with those enforcer things)
I hope to build my workshop to look like the one shown in the photo (link below)
http://usera.ImageCave.com/Barneyrubble/wshop.jpg
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Accidentally perhaps, but you'll still want to hang stuff from it: tool racks, shelves, cable racks, desklight, magnifier, whiteboard, big hammer for Windows Vista.

That stuff's handy, but very expensive to buy new.
Of course, remember to double your planned socket numbers and you'll still run out. My PC rack has a server socket strip (kettle leads) on the side and a load of old monitor power cables. 18 sockets in the width of less than a single 13A.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:43:25 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Crap accumulates to fill the space available, you know.
Our neighbour built one himself - it's around 30'x50' and two-story. Running water, UFH, toilet... utterly beautiful construction. It's gradually filling up with crap ;-)
cheers
Jules
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.