Most sheds now do not stick LV downlighters, or reduced stock, all is going over to mains. The cost of lamps is dropping.
three of mine (35mm 20w) have gone in the past week. It is cheaper to buy a whole 3 piece light fitting with Xformer, etc than buy three lamps.
If you had installed more insulation and made the place air tight a full heating system would not be required. You have identified those problems.
To add, electrical cables in conduits with cables running behind skirtings. Then no need to butcher Warmcell filled walls in the futrure when cables need extending around a room.
Large porch to act as an air lock and a place to put wet clothes and shoes.
We have done that in our present self buld (Which is next door to the next one were doing) but the rainwater only fills the pond when we have rain which leaves the hot summers (Fewer and far between) I figured the reed bed would provide water all year round
That's given me even more to think about. I'm a bit confused by this Cat 5 cabling, what items can it be used for, surely if its just for computers as I thought then you would only want it in say an office and maybe bedrooms. As someone has mentioned what's the need of running two Cat5 cables to each point? and will there be a central point, say a cabling cupboard where you could have a broadband modem then have the cables running from this point to all the rooms where the cable terminates (Would that require a router) sorry if this is slightly of topic.
With something like speaker cable in say lounge, would it be best to install cable and how would you decide on positions.. Also are there terminal wall plates for speaker cable.
You don't need this expensive form of heating if you do pay attention to insulation and superinsulate the place.
installation
The in-law has wireless speakers on his setup. Impressed. You could install speaker sockets in the obvious places that speakers would go, but they do go there in the end.
You can use it for telephone, home automation and anything else that uses low-voltage low-current.
Yes. Doubling up on cables gives you a spare in case there are problems with one of them (it's much easier to run extra cables in a new build than it is to replace them later, and the extra cost is negligible compared to the hassle) and it gives you the opportunity to use the spare as above.
Phones, hi-fi, alarms, computers, WHY...
It's easier to floodwire the house when it's being built than run extra cable everywhere.
Because each cable only supports one computer, and if you don't want hubs/switches in living rooms, you need multiple cables. (I have 5 computers in my study, for example.)
Yes.
No. It would all be one sub-net.
Back to main topic. Don't get hung up on toys. Concentrate on the main aspects that cannot be changed once installed: superinsulation, air-tightness, elimination of cold bridges, etc. Also dig around the foundations, and install insulation against the buildings walls underground. This prevents heat loss to the side of the building floor slab to the surrounding cold earth. This can be done retro in any house that has a concrete slab. Easy and cheap to do, all you do is dig down in stages and then backfill. Keeps you fit.
"John Borman" wrote | However after doing our first house as a self build there were a number of | things we missed and would have liked. We want this one to be perfect not | just for us but for families down the line. So what I was looking for was | things that people on here would really like to have see in their house.
Owain
You say up to her neck, couldn't it be arranged that she was inverted before being dunked, that wouldn't add much to the spectacle but it would cut down on the noise levels.
Dont do this until you know the foundation details; with some houses it could cause major problems, even collapse.
NT
What strikes me about this thread is that build time is usually a time of needing to cut costs, not to splurge on everything you dont need. I would therefore take a 2 phase approach. Work out what you ideally want, but only put in the things that need to go in, plus the things that will enable the rest to be put in some other day.
BTW you only need 2" of height for isolated ceilings, the 2x3 or 2x4 for the ceiling can go between the floor joists. Fibreglass or similar on the ceiling will damp resonance and improve sound deadening significantly too.
NT
1"x2" counter batons under the ceiling joists to reduce contact with upper floor. Then rockwool pads between ceiling boards and joists. Fibreglass is useless between floors, use high density rigid Rockwool.
Not so. You do it in phases. You don't dig a trench all around the building. You dig out 1.5 meters, install insulation and backfill, and work your way around the house.
It does not even need to take much height. I ended up with said arrangement as a part of my loft conversion, simply by having new floor joists slotted between the old floor/ceiling joists (but spaced above their level by an inch). It in effect used one inch more depth of floor than it would have otherwise.
Please don't shout ...
What if the bedrooms/dressing rooms are on the ground floor?
er - and have to cart laundry (could be a lot) upstairs to the laundry room?
YES!
No, a garrison for bowmen, they can use the ramparts. Mantraps to catch the trespassers.
Mary
A lightning conductor alone does not provide protection. Rod is only as effective as its earth ground. Same earthing system that would also protect those interior network cables from utility transients.
You cannot >> Lightning conductor(s)?
UFH, Open Fire, forget the read bed go Packaged Sewage Treatment Unit, more child friendly, imagine your child in the reed bed .......
Good views, distanc from parents to kids at night - but not too much - good kitchen, windows
On the architect, get one that can design what you can afford to build!!
Rick
Conduits would have to be substantial steel to protect if you wanted to do this with power cables in this position......
I thought it was a house rather than a space ship.....
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