How to unbond bond of induction hob to granite worktop

Feb 22, 2017 40 Replies

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The aperture I made in my workshop for the electric hob ended up being a tight interference fit. No sealant was used, but those that come afterwards might think otherwise.

Are you sure it isn't silicone? Ours was fitted professionally but I watched it being done and they used clear silicone.

I'd try a thin blade to slowly try and cut it. You can get solvent, perhaps a combination of solvent, blade, and gentle lifting from below of the whole unit.

Mine was professionally fitted too, they didn't use any sealant. (yes I know you can DIY granite but there are limits to what I can move and 30 mm granite is not light.)

The hob came with a rubber strip glued along the edge and that presses on the worktop through the weight of the hob.

There are spring clips fitted to the sides but they are there to stop lateral movement.

To remove it you take out the drawer underneath and push upwards, if you try and leaver it out it will break.

[...]

You are as always, wrong. Not very porous but certainly slightly permeable. Not 'like glass' as you say. No.

TW

Update, son sent this image as he managed to prise (sealant) some out, trying to get info from him with more detail.

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Further update: Quote: "It's the excess that has oozed out upon installation. SO I took that from the underside. But it's all the way round and is defo sealing / bonding it to the worktop.

However. I've realised. The engineer that came out and said it needs to come off. I don't buy it. I think he's want it out for easiness. But looking at undersides. All the access and the only access to the cooker is on the underside. So in situ yea, it's awkward. But I bet it's doable. He said it was just a sensor that needs replaced. I reackon I can do in situ." Unquote.

Apparently it is a sensor that needs replacing.

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REally noyt. Look it up.

Not 'like glass' as you say. No.

Bery like glass as I said.

Sandstone is porus. sandstone needs sealing. Sandstone will stain.

Not Granite

which foams because it was NOT created under pressure. A is full of gas when it forms

Its still not permeable IIRC

Very hard to tell from a photo.

How it fractures (or not) when bent would distinguish brittle epoxy from the more flexible silicone or acrylic fillers. It could even be a hot melt PU glue which would soften when warmed up.

None of the obvious cured polymers will be easily softened by heat apart from a PU hot melt glue.

I think his best bet is a razor blade or scalpel in parallel to the bench and done with great care to avoid scratching the granite or personal injury with sharp thin blades that may shatter if forced.

Some tools sold for dismantling iPads spring to mind as suitable.

My experience was with food dyes. Fortunately UV removed it.

Apparently it is `soft/bendy` like silicone so I reckon trying heat to start with.

No harm in trying, but you may as well try melting the loose bit.

I guess granite worktop and pyrex hob would stand up to a blowtorch so that might be one way to seriously weaken the bond.

If it is soft bendy like silicone then I'd be going for a pack of classic razor blades, putting a copper safe edge on one side of it and then a small handle to allow it to be used as a thin saw come knife.

There is a real risk of snapping it used like this but it is perhaps the only thing that will cut a thin polymer glue in a confined space.

A boxcutter might also do the job if there is space (with the same risks of snapping the blade and sharp breaks if forced).

Acetone will soften silicone.

Pour some acetone into a cup (taking care to read all the hazard labels, and donning the requisite breathing apparatus, goggles, safety helmet. boots overalls etc. according to taste - or just leave a window open) and dip the end of a thin bladed pallet knife into the cup then into the joint. Alternatively using an artists size bristle brush, dip this into the acetone and paint along the join.Wait a few minutes and if this is successful then dip and insert the pallet knife as before. Soft materials like silicone bond as much by suction as by adhesive properties as such, and so it may be possible as some stage to lever the hob off. But only after a bit of "give" can be felt in the joint otherwise there's be a risk of fracture.

it's almost certainly silicone.

Only a moron would use that much acetone at once in a room.

Sorry, my mistake

Posting sensible and useful answers on this forum is obviously a complete waste of time with experts like you around.

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I bought some silicone remover gel from ScrewStation. Hmm, I wonder what's in it and whether it's safe to use?

Anyway, if that's safer, you could use that instead of acetone.

In any case, it'll all work much better once the clips holding this hob down have been removed. :)

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