SWMBO has decided that the lounge needs redecorating. Wallpaper has been stripped using a steamer but has left glue/paste on the plaster. How best to prepare the plaster for painting? There are 2 radiators on the wall and I really really don't want to take them off. There is still wallpaper behind them. What's the best way to proceed? There is a gap of 20mm between wall and radiator. TIA Iain
Wallpaper paste remover does exist. You could also try washing with sugar soap.
No real answer to the radiator problem, except removing them. If you do, watch out for black sludge in them. I would make a nasty mess on the floor.
Bucket of water with small amount of detergent and one of those green plastic scouring pads used for washing dishes etc. followed by a wipe over with a wet large sponge, Change the water every 5 minutes. Repeat endlessly. Occasionally thoroughly wash out the scourer and sponge under a running tap.
In my experience - remove the radiator.
+1. Removing the rads is usually straightforward. Turn both valves off (if one is thermostatic then remove the head and put the "decorating cap" on), put a deep tray under one end of the rad, loosen the nut that attaches the valve to the rad (catch the small amount of water), open the bleed valve, slowly undo the nut more as the flow of water decreases . When the water stops coming out tease the valve off the rad stub (expect some water), undo the other end (expect some water). Close the bleed valve. Lift the rad off its mountings, keeping one end slightly low and expect some more water to come out. Once the rad is free turn it upside down to stop any more water. You will need to empty the tray a few times so have a bucket ready. Refitting is easy but refilling depends (slightly) on what sort of system you have - ask if unsure.
no need. Loosen the nuts a bit & lay it down. Retighten.
NT
Sometimes you can drop a radiator flat on the floor if you have enough move ment in the pipes to lift it off the brackets needs two people though. Firs t turn of the two valves noting how many turns it took of the lock shield v alve so you can open it the correct amount and save having to balance the s ystem again. Next open the air vent this will relieve any pressure in the r adiator if it is a pressurised system and re-tighten the vent. At this poin t put some old towels or other suitable cloths to catch a small amount of w ater that will leak out of the valves if carpeted it is a good idea to roll it back from the vicinity. Now place some blocks as near thick as the dis tance from the floor to the underside of the radiator, these are what you w ill rest the radiator on. The final stage is the part where you need to wor k fast. Loosen the two valve connecting nuts at least half a turn some wate r will trickle out but hopefully your cloths will absorb this. A half turn should enable you to rotate the radiator through 90deg. With your assistant lift the radiator off the brackets and pivot the radiator down on the axis of the two valves being very careful not to bend the pipes once the radiat or is supported on the blocks re-tighten the valve nuts enough to stop the water leaking. Replacement is the reverse of removal.
I have done this many a time even with 10mm pipes without mishap works best probably with 15mm pipes.
Richard
That really does depend on the amount of upward slack in the joining pipes. On my radiators, one of which I removed recently for decoration, required it to be lifted by about 3 cm to get it off the 3 fixing brackets. It was also f'ing heavy (old and nearly full length of a bay window). When refitting I propped it up on wooden blocks at a height close to that of its final position.
For the OP, the radiator may be very dusty in between panels and/or in the enclosed fins at the back of the radiator. A cheap radiator brush comes in handy.
very small roller
They are widely available and excellent
You will need one with a long handle
Warm soapy water, and sponge/cloth and elbow grease.
Understood.
Take them off (well you did ask for the best way!)
In some cases you may be able to loosen the unions, and carefully lift the rad off the brackets and lay them down. However you will still spill some water, it only works if there is a bit of flexibility / movement in the pipe tails, and you can actually lift the things safely. Note a large rad full of water is 'kin heavy! (There is also a good chance you might bend a pipe tail)
You can bodge it in situ - it will look ok from most angles except straight down.
(taking a rad off is easy enough, when you know how)
+1, I also find it useful to have a wet and dry vac to hand, this lets you catch dribbles going in the wrong direction, and means you only need a small tray. For a large rad containing several vacuum's worth you may need to nip the nuts up a couple of times to empty the vac. Still less fiddle than emptying a tray in a bucket.
you can drop a radiator flat on the floor if you have enough movement in the pipes to lift it off the bracke ts needs two people though. First turn of the two valv es noting how many turns it took of the lock shield va lve so you can open it the correct amount and save hav ing to balance the system again. Next open the air ven t this will relieve any pressure in the radiator if it is a pressurised system and re-tighten the vent. At t his point put some old towels or other suitable cloths to catch a small amount of water that will leak out o f the valves if carpeted it is a good idea to roll it back from the vicinity. Now place some blocks as near thick as the distance from the floor to the underside of the radiator, these are what you will rest the rad iator on. The final stage is the part where you need t o work fast. Loosen the two valve connecting nuts at l east half a turn some water will trickle out but hopef ully your cloths will absorb this. A half turn should enable you to rotate the radiator through 90deg. With your assistant lift the radiator off the brackets and pivot the radiator down on the axis of the two valves being very careful not to bend the pipes once the radi ator is supported on the blocks re-tighten the valve n uts enough to stop the water leaking. Replacement is t he reverse of removal.
time even with 10mm pipes without mishap works best pr obably with 15mm pipes.
+1 for that too, but having a wet and dry vac to hand is always worth it IMHO.
Thank You gentlemen for your suggestions. I think I will try to lay the radiators down. I think the tails are fed from polypipe below the floor, so there should be enough play to enable the rads to be lifted off the brackets. Regards, Iain
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