I bought a new Makita jigsaw recently, but only now got around to
using it. It's an orbital jigsaw. The "scotch yoke"
plunger-with-roller (the bit that moves up and down) is sprung loaded.
This is probably to do with the orbital action, if invoked.
When you insert the jigsaw blade, ensuring the blade fits in the
roller groove, you can push against the edge of the blade (forward to
aft direction) and the yoke/roller assy moves against the spring.
Release the blade and it springs forward again, maintaining good
contact with the blade's rear edge.
Now, what is the correct way of putting in the blade? Should the blade
be just lightly resting against the roller (A)? Or should it be very
slightly tensioned against it (by the sprung-loaded mechanism) (B)?
Reason I ask is, if I insert it as in (A), the blade wanders to the
left like crazy, even when I use a fence. When I adopt (B), it
doesn't. It cuts a nice, straight line. I'm using genuine Makita B 10
Never heard the term "orbital" for a jigsaw, but i have a Makita with pendu
lum action and what sounds like the same blade fitting arrangement. The bla
de is held snug against the roller, but not with great force.
A fence with a jigsaw is a nightmare and i would never use one. The blades
are flexible and so if you force a straight line cut with a fence, the cut
may remain straight on the upper surface, but the blade will tend to depart
from perpendicular to the surface (i.e. a slanted cut). This doesn't happe
n during freehand cutting because you are constantly correcting the cut dir
ection (i.e. hunting, albeit within a very narrow range of movement, if you
're good at it), rather than forcing it.
A jigsaw is not a tool for cutting a perfect straight edge. It is for curve
d and awkward shapes, or for making an approximate straight cut (can be mad
e perfect using a router or other tool, afterwards).
On Mon, 13 Mar 2017 01:43:32 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org
Makita refers to it as an orbital jigsaw, but, yes, it's equivalent to
pendulum action, as far as I can tell. This is the first jigsaw I've
bought with this "feature". (Actually, it's only the 2nd jigsaw I've
ever bought.) Maybe Makita chose "orbital", as it's a term more DIYers
would recognise than "pendulum".
Okay, but with my previous AEG (as mentioned, it was 40 years old) a
guide or fence worked very well and blade deviation was minimal.
With freehand cutting one just needs lots of practice, I suppose...
Yes, I'm amazed about that, having read the same statement all over
the web. I have only ever owned a jigsaw, never a circular saw, so
apart from handsaws, the jigsaw is all I have (although I'd quite like
a bandsaw, but can't justify the cost). Maybe I was spoilt by the
excellent AEG non-"orbital" jigsaw I bought in West Germany in the
Something I never need to do!!
That neither. I only want straight cuts in plywood or MDF. If I'm
sawing, say, a real wood floor board or similar, I use the handsaw.
I think that the main issues with straight jigsaw cuts, using a fence, are
1) tool quality
The *worst* jigsaw i ever had was a B&D "scrolling" jigsaw, where the rotat
ional slop meant that you simply could not cut a straight line. I ruined mo
re wood with that thing than I care to recall (some bloody minded determina
tion to persevere with it, for years).
2) blade flex/substrate density variation
Straight, perpendicular cuts in man made materials that are uniform density
/hardness throughout seems to be more achievable than for natural wood, whi
ch has knots and grain pattern that tend to re-direct a flexible blade and
if the machine is fence-guided, it causes non-perpendicular cutting.
3. Substrate thickness
The thicker, the greater the effects of 1 and 2 on the cut.
Circ saws and routers are wonderful things.
Anyone used one of those mini circ saws that seem to be all the rage these
days? Any good?
On Mon, 13 Mar 2017 09:54:12 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
I was looking at one of those in Wickes this afternoon! £69, a Worx
tool. Screwfix do a similar product called Titan at £15 cheaper. I
looked at the Bosch one online, but it only has a 40mm blade and the
depth of cut is only 16mm. The Worx is 27mm.
With many of the Makita jigsaws they employ a quick change blade system
where you simply push a leaver to the side, insert the blade and let got
- it then snaps into the right place every time. Looking at the pictures
of yours, I am guessing this is not a tool free blade change?
The blade should be sprung against the restraint - such that as the
blade orbits / swings it remains in contact with the blade support at
No, it has an Allen screw. I prefer it. That's what the AEG had.
Aha! Now that pretty much confirms what I've found in practice. What I
did was pull back the sprung roller/blade holder *very slightly*, then
insert the blade absolutely perpendicular and tighten the Allen screw,
then release the roller. Then I get a very good cut. Otherwise, not.
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