How to drill a big hole on my wall?

Hi,

I am thinking of installing a Vent Hood in my kitchen and planning to drill a big hole on the wall (brick wall I guess) so that the exhaust pipe can go out.

My friend at work says that I would need a diamond core drill to make things lots easier. I am here to ask that is it the case? Are there some online tutorials that I can read before I start to terror my kitchen?

Many Thanks

Jerry

Reply to
DAXU
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Yes, but you don't need one, you don't even need a drill - just a chisel and hammer - but it will make life a LOT easier if you use one.... They can be hired so you don't need to buy anything (unless you bugger up the tool).

Are there

Not me!

Reply to
:Jerry:

How big a hole do you need? For up to about 110mm you might get away with a core drill in a 'domestic' SDS drill, but for anything bigger you'll need to hire a professional tool.

You need to start with a long thin drill which will go right through the wall, and use this to drill a pilot hole on the centreline of your large hole. Then drill from both sides through as far as the cavity, and the two large holes will line up ok.

The alternative - which will also work with holes larger than 110mm - is to drill a ring of small (6 or 8mm) holes and then use a cold chisel to break out the bits between the perforations. This isn't quite so neat as using a core drill, but there's likely to be some sort of bezel on the outside which will hide any slight roughness in the hole. Again, drill a pilot hole right the way through and then mark out the large hole on each side of the wall, centred on the pilot. Then drill a ring of holes - as close together as you can get them - from each side, through to the cavity in each case. An SDS drill will make light work of this.

Reply to
Roger Mills

You can also use an SDS in 'chisel' mode (if it has rotation stop) to break out the brick once you have chain drilled it. With a bit of care you can get very neat holes doing this.

Cheap DIY SDS can be had for around £50.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Great thanks to both of you!!

Reply to
DAXU

The message from "Roger Mills" contains these words:

But don't use it in hammer mode. Core drill will be instantly buggered if you do.

Reply to
Roger

Agreed. However, most core drills that I've seen seem to come with an SDS-type fluted shaft, so you need to drive them with an SDS drill - albeit in rotation-only mode.

Reply to
Roger Mills

On Jul 2, 11:52 am, "The Medway Handyman"

Or even cheaper. Netto had one for =A320 last week, with rotation stop and everything.

-- Rob

Reply to
Rob Hamadi

You bought a Sparky? Oh Matt will be disappointed as it doesn't have an expensive tag on it and He has never heard of the brand before.

What is the quality like? It is well priced

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

I've never used them myself, but have seen core drills with SDS shanks on market stalls, and have wondered about getting one. What exactly is the problem?

Reply to
Roger Mills

Nothing. I have used them, without the hammer on. It worked fine. As long as the drill has a very slow speed, which most SDS drill have, and a clutch, then no problems. I can't see what Stumbo is on about.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

I did this recently for a vent hose (110mm I think) for a dryer. Being somewhat cheap and preferring muscle over money I did it this way:

- Measured from a window to have a common reference point on both sides of the wall

- Knocked off the exterior pebbledash with a hammer, brick bolster (basically a big flat chisel) to find the cement between the bricks

- Drilled a bunch of holes in the cement with an ordinary masonry drill bit (cement was much softer than brick)

- Based the crap out of it with a BIG hammer and a 12" cold chisel

This got me through the exterior wall. When I reached the inner wall (other side of the cavity) I just kept bashing away at the cement with the cold chisel. Once I got "good" at it, only took about 30 minutes.

The thing I liked was that I felt there was reasonable control - I wasn't taking unnecessarily huge chunks of wall out.

Then I inserted the pipe, filled the gap around it with foam, plastered over the foam, sanded, and painted! Voila.

There may be a more professional method, but this worked.

David

Reply to
david.hollman

I don't know about John's experiance, but my own experiance has been mixed. I bought a TCT core drill. It is fine for going through early 1900's commons bricks. Tried drilling through the wall of a 1990 house and it took me an hour. OK, the bricks are more like engineering bricks. Out of curiosity, I put a power meter on my 1100W Metabo, and it was managing to deliver about

750W in top gear. At slow speed it did nothing noticable in the way of cutting at all. Having broken through the outer wall, it then went though the inner wall in about 2 seconds, which came as a bit of a surprise. More recently I had another hole to do, and I did it by removing some bricks (drill out out the mortar), cutting the bricks to shape, and mortaring them back in again. It was much easier. On softer commons, I would still use a core drill. Drilling postage stamp perforations and knocking out the middle is another technique I have used a number of times over the years too.

I did wonder if a diamond core drill would have been better. I couldn't find anything which gave the pro's and con's of TCT verses diamond when I bought mine.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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