Hole saws

I need to drill 6 holes into my ceiling. We are having those recessed light things.

I have never used a hole saw before so just wanted to get my head around the terminology.

Looking a Screwfix the saws (cylidrical things with teeth on one end) come in various diameters. But they do not include an Arbor.

Just what is an Arbor?

Do I need one?

I have a 2 speed electric drill, will this be suitable for this job?

The ceilings are made of 5mm hard sheets, not plasterboard or traditional lath and plater. I am sure the savvy ones amoungst you will guess what they are made of. But I am not after a discussion into the rights and wrong of drilling this particular substance.

Thanks for all / any opinions.

Reply to
Philip
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It is the central bar that fits into the drill chuck with the hole saw bolted to the other end.

Yes

Tony

Reply to
Tony

The spindle that goes in the middle, and connects the hole saw with your drill. It also has the pilot drill in it.

Yes.

Depends what the material is. You'll need a 13mm chuck.

While I'm usually pretty relaxed about handling asbestos, you should be aware that cutting it with a holesaw will produce *huge* amounts of dust. Unless you fully understand the precaustions you need to take, don't do it.

It's a very hard material to cut, so will take you a while to get through it.

Also, I don't think you'll get away with using your 2 speed, you'll need a variable speed.

Reply to
Grunff

On 20 May 2004 02:09:55 -0700, in uk.d-i-y philip_a snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Philip) strung together this:

It's the part that fits into the drill, has a centre pilot drill in it and the holesaw screws onto it.

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?ts=46738&id=12437>Do I need one?

Yes. Make sure you get the right size.

I'd have thought so, variable speed?

Reply to
Lurch

It's the part the saw 'blade' fits on and includes a drill. They're sold separately as one arbor will take several different sized hole saws, so you may already have had a suitable one.

Yes.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

On Thu, 20 May 2004 10:18:34 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Grunff strung together this:

Only if you get a holesaw with a shank bigger than 10mm. Otherwise a

10mm chuck will do!
Reply to
Lurch

Yes, but the only arbors I've seen for larger holesaws (~40mm+) have bigger shanks. I'm sure you can get large arbors with small shanks, but they're not that common.

Reply to
Grunff

Yes you do if you are going to go for a separate cutter and arbor arrangement.

OK. It may make sense to use an adjustable cutter with a cowl to stop the dust and bits from travelling too much.

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of these would be a smart move as well.

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>Thanks for all / any opinions.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

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mask-face seal you get with the first one is really not great.

Reply to
Grunff

OK. I'm not surprised. I was looking at the cheap disposables, but I also use a good 3M one. The point is to do as best os one can.......

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Sure, no argument there.

Because we're working on the house all the time, and will be for the next 6 months or so (it /will/ be finished before xmas!), we keep a pair of the 3M ones on the go all the time (one for me, one for her), and throw them out once a month. They are by far the nicest masks I've ever used.

Reply to
Grunff

Assuming that it is asbestolux -a mixture of cement and white asbestos (quite soft when new but hardens with age) you should wear a good mask but you might try drilling through a bag taped to the ceiling. Whatever you have for a ceiling, that will cut down on the debris that flies around.

Asbestolux is by no means as dangerous as asbestos sheets -which I doubt very much you have. Asbestolux is smooth on one side and dimpled on the other. Why does everyone assume you have that and not the white faced hardboard most often seen in portacabins?

Reply to
Michael Mcneil

If the ceiling is hardboard, then it requires replacement more urgently than asbestos, as it is a serious fire risk.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

I think the proper answer is no, theyre not intended for anything nearly that big, but they generally manage to get it done. You may need to go light on pressure, and be patient. With a hard material maybe very patient indeed: youre probably drilling cement rather than plaster, or something similarly hard.

Well, at least youll get the chance to seal the sheets afterwards to stop any further dust dropping off.

Since I'm not sure what your 5mm is, really you should commission an expert to come analyse it and see if its safe to drill first. I believe thats the correct procedure anyway.

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

I just wanted to thank all contributors on this thread.

While I wrote that I was not that interested in a discussion of the rights and wrongs of drilling through the asbestos based ceiling material, I am rather pleased it did.

Your 'collected' concerns spurred me into doing a little research which led me to the article below. And I have to admit that my previously blase attitude to this job has changed a little.

======= The Article ===============================

Q: I have an asbestos ceiling in my kitchen and I wish to drill some holes for a light fitting, the work will only take half an hour and as it seems excessive to have to use a licensed contractor I am going to do it myself. What precautions should I take?

A: Legally as the work will take less than one hour you do not have to use a licensed contractor although it is safest to use an expert such as a licensed contractor. You may also be in the situation that the ceiling is asbestos cement rather than a low-density board in which case you only need to use a competent contractor. If though you are going to do the work yourself, you should clear the room and ensure that no one enters whilst you are doing the work. You should wear a mask that is ?CE' marked to EN 149 with FFP3 particulate filters suitable for protection against asbestos and ensure that it is fitted as well as possible and wear disposable overalls with a hood. Lay polythene sheeting on the floor beneath where you are working and have to hand some damp disposable cloths. If possible gain access to the top of the ceiling boards and damp with a fine mist spray. Mark on the ceiling where the holes are to be drilled, over the marks place a blob of ready mixed wallpaper paste and drill through the blobs of wallpaper paste with the drill set on the slowest setting, ensuring that you are not directly beneath where you are drilling. Once the drilling is complete wipe the surface of the board you have drilled and your drill with damp cloths and place the cloths in a plastic bag. Fix your light fixing. Wipe everything down with damp cloths and place the cloths in plastic bags. Place the plastic bags with cloths in the polythene sheet and then place the polythene sheet and the plastic bags in another plastic bag. Take of your overalls and disposable mask and put into the plastic bag. Seal the bag and mark asbestos. This bag will now need to be disposed of as asbestos waste, with your local authority being able to advise you what arrangements they have for the disposal of DIY asbestos waste.

Reply to
Philip

On the positive side, assuming one were to wish to get rid of the stuff, we have removed all but two of the Asbestos (sounds like your "lux" stuff, but the council man just called it Asbestos cement) ceilings in our house. Commercial companies want to hire you a skip at some £300 to £400 a time, but we found our local council would take the stuff away for £15 a "wrap" where the guy reckoned our 3m by 5m lounge would take

3 or 4 wraps.

Taking it down was a horrid dirty messy job (it had been up there for

70+ years and accumulated a lot of muck, though of course we kitted ourselves out with disposable suits, goggles and dustmasks) and replacing the ceilings does involve a bit of cost (plasterboarding then getting the Artexer in), but IME well worth it. The other two ceilings are coming down as soon as we are ready to do that half of the house.

Hwyl!

M.

Reply to
Martin Angove

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