Hmmph - "wood" effect DG beading

[Tim Watts]

That did not go quite as well as my first set of windows.

The beading IMHO is a *very* tight fit[1] and takes some pretty sharp blows with a nylon faced mallet to click in.

Mechanically, glazing went well - panes are square relative to seals, casements close nicely.

The only thing to spoil my day is a few of the mallet blows left some visible marks on the rosewood-foil faced trim.

The marks are silvery under bright light (led torch) and seem to disappear when rubbed with a wet finger.

Any idea how to get rid of these? Silicone polish, heat from a hairdryer??

I tried the rubber end of the mallet first, but could not get a sharp enough blow to click it in.

[1] To answer a previous question, which was "how to bead when your beads all have one end square cut" - the answer is:

Do the bottom (or top) first as you prefer.

Do the top (or bottom) next.

From the remaining pieces, insert square cut end at an angle and push/wiggle it down behind its neighbour. Then as someone suggested, start at the other end and it will (mostly) sort itself out.

Cheers

Tim

[John Rumm]

Rub them with a wet finger ;-)

Warming them up first can make them a bit easier to work with...

Yup, doing the short side first is usually easiest.

[Tim Watts]

Thanks John. I tried that. It does not get rid of them, but they seem less bad now.

The eye is tuned to extreme perfection when doing a job. I expect (hope) I will not notice the odd blemish. Need to see it in daylight tomorrow...

Might be a good time to break out the hairdryer :)

I also noticed if I lick the square end, both surface and seal, it slides in rather easier...

IMO these beads are cut just a fraction too long.

Anyway, if anyone wants a rundown on windowsanddoors.co.uk, here it is:

(Rosewood uPVC windows, about 1.2m x 1m)

0) Website is good allowing easy playing with the spec and seeing the price on screen. 1) Frames are solid enough - with steel. (White would not have steel unless specially ordered) 2) No black handles! Have to go with gold. 3) Handles OK, but key lock is rather crappy, even by windows handle standards. 4) Beads - not as happy with the beading as I was with the Rehau units I got from a Tunbridge Wells supplier. 5) Some DG panels have got the sealing gunk on the glass face - minor but be nice if they came clean! 6) Frame dimensions exactly what I ordered - well cut and welded neatly. 7) Very helpful on the phone at ordering time. 8) Not very helpful aftersales - had to email them, phone calls not allowed! To be fair, email was answered reasonably promptly. 9) Delivery - helpful, bloke helped me inside with them even though it's technically a "kerbside delivery". 10) Price - pretty good overall - a good deal less than my local supplier (who does not like selling for self fit any more).

Overall rating - for the money, fairly decent. Few bits could be better, but in the grand scheme of things I probably will not care ;->

[John Rumm]

Sorry that was a slightly facetious comment since you did mention that in your original post.

Plastic is IME very difficult to "retouch" in anyway - often cleaning and then leaving well alone is the best option.

Yup, or a bowl of hot slight soapy water can help warm and lubricate a bit.

I thought that with some I have done, but when you finally get them all in in place the joins look neat - so unless they rely on them compressing a bit as they go in, they might in reality be "just right".

Good to know.

[Tim Watts]

Not at all :) Please don't apologise to me :)

I did not mention, but I should have.

I set up a test and told SWMBO something was wrong but not waht. She did not notice. When I pointed it out, she was "whatever, it's not much".

Ah - the "interference fit" - could be...

At least it gives you a guide price...

[Ilene D'over]

If I read your post correctly, this seams an unusual method of cutting beads.

For bevelled beads the usual method is to cut the top and bottom beads square and both sides angled. Top and bottom beads in first and then the sides which are corner fitted first and then pushed/hammered in.

You should only use a rubber faced mallet with masking tape on the bead if it's that tight.

It's common for the beads to be slightly over size circa 1mm.

[Tim Watts]

Hi,

Thanks for that. Yes - the beads I had from the local supplier were like you say.

I've managed to switch to using the rubber face of the mallet combining with John's suggestion of warming them in warm water with a drop of Fairy.

That certainly helps - wiggling the square end in is a *lot* easier with the water as a lubricant.

I have to say, the hammer marks are not really visible in diffuse daylight.

If they ever start to piss me off I can get fresh beads and replace a couple next summer - but it probably won't be necessary.

Cheers!

Tim

[Ilene D'over]

That's good.

Not usually necessary but a good idea.

Non-abrasive car polish wiped off with meths after polishing is a good DIY cleaning method.

One tip, contrary to what may seem obvious, the cut angle on the beads will often not be 45 degrees as most bevelled beads are not 45 degrees. The ones we fit are 46.5 degrees so you have to undercut by 1.5 degrees on the saw i.e. 43.5 degrees.

It is more difficult than you imagine to cut beads, especially without the glass fitted because the beads flex outwards when the glass is in so what looks good on the bench often ends up with mis-aligned corners when the glass is fitted. We use modified saws with the correct angle set on the table stops, using a mitre saw at home can cause problems.

If you do replace the beads, you may need a few practise runs with short sections to get the angle right and you will, of course, do it properly :o)

[Tim Watts]

Ah - a pro - as in you make them?

windowsanddoors are sending me 2m uncut gratis, which is nice of them.

Cheers!

Tim

[Ilene D'over]

I'm so glad you clarified your use of "pro" :o)

[The Other Mike]

eh? How does that work then without leaving a gap?

[Tim Watts]

The square goes *under* the adjoing mitre.

[Steve Firth]

I think the important term there was "bevelled". What was described is a mason's mitre.