Hmm - slightly confused...
Last windows I fitted had all mitred beading - the only trick was to get top
New windows, every bead is mitred at one end and square cut at the other.
Putting them in looks a bit like the problem where you fold the 4 flaps on a the top of a box so they are all interlocked. In other words, every bead has a neighbour under it whilst itself tucks under the other neighbour.
Anyone done beads like this - is there a trick?
Cheers, Tim
Maybe clip a short length of one end down and slide it under the next piece before clipping the rest down?
SteveW
Prise the longest ones out first from the middle (ie bending them)?
Fit the shortest (rather than top/bottom) first, then spring the longer pieces in by bending. I usually find reading the instructions that come with the windows helps as well.
MBQ
Thank you sir,
That sounds like a good plan of attack.
I'm putting the frames in as soon as the roofers have done their leadwork - then I'll be glazing.
I think I will toe+heel and put 2 beads in each pane just to get the holes all closed off.
Then I can tit about with the long pieces which might be more fiddly.
Cheers
Tim
he's trying to get them IN you tit
Jim K
Reverse the process. Not difficult.
That is true. Tomorrow as it turns out.
I removed 2 old windows, the roofers removed the other 2. They have done little lead cill trays for all 4 and I have mounted the frames - by which time it was 4pm. Luckily I had the foresight to buy a big sheet of 150 micron sheeting just for the occasion of covering unglazed windows :)
Typically, as these things go, I enquired of the roofers how they would like the frames mounted (positioning forward/backwards). They said "frames
18-24mm pround of the outside edge of the timber framed wall would be good, so the verge between the vertical tiles and the frame in minimised".This led to my pre-drilled holes and thus screws being within 10-15mm of the outside edge of the timbers. I am not 100% happy about that - bit close IMO, so I will add another 4 screws per window (2 each side) set and angled back to get a better bearing, because I am Mr Over-Engineering.
Could do with a little extra stiffness anyway (pre foaming, which will help more) as I have been "forbidden" from sticking screws down through the lead under-cill tray. This is not unreasonable as there was some rot there due to the previous tray not being done properly. Only 1.2m wide frames and they are full of steel so should be OK.
Anyway, should be able to wrap this up tomorrow. 12 DG panels to glaze in.
I did ring windowsanddoors.co.uk about the beading design, but they were a bit unhelpful. Trial and error I suppose.
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