High power 500 watt security lamp replacements?..

I've just had a few security light lamps fall over, the self contained ones with the 500 watt flood lamp in, and went to the local wholesalers yesterday to get a dozen replacements.

Was told that they don't stock them anymore and there're being phased out and we've now got to use a fluorescent replacement one at 5 times the price!. Just tried one and its surprisingly bright 'tho not as good as the olde 500 watt tungsten type. However they are using a hellvua lot less power and I'm quite surprised to see that they light up right away with no flicker or any other artefacts.

Seeing that this might be a good idea does anyone have much experience of these and possibly higher brightness ones in the same sort of fitting/s?. This ones made by Acel and is described as a 21 watt one 'tho I've just noticed that it sez same light output as a 150 watt, but

95% less energy over a 500 watt one which seems a bit ambiguous;!...

cheers..

Reply to
tony sayer
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The bare bulbs are about 7 quid from discount-electrical.co.uk They're OK and useful, but they're no replacement for an nhundred W halogen. They failed as my decorating light (shows lumpy walls and missing paint) and my woodturning lathe light.

I'm mostly using 150W halogens as security floodlights, i.e. instant on, bright, shouldn't normally be on so I don't care about consumption. For "courtesy" outdoor lights, I'm using 20W CFLs in coppaslip'ed BC bases.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Lidl had some PIR flood lights with 23(or was it 26?) watt fluorescents in last week for £7.99. They weren't pretty but they are cheap.

Reply to
dennis

One of the advantages of the CF in fittings used outside is that lamp lifespan is longer because they're not so susceptible to vibration damage caused by wind. Even with the CF in position they're much neater than most other types of lamp, if that's an issue.

Reply to
John MacLeod

  • I'm using a 50W 12V halogen proper-incandescent in my lathe's Danglepoise (after bolting in the right holder), any type of fluorescent's a bad idea on rotating machinery as they can "strobe" at particular speeds and the 4-jaw chuck turning at 1500 RPM can appear to be stationary - until it meets fingers...

The 75W halogen B.C. bulbs in the supermarkets give a pretty good work light, save *a bit of* energy compared to 100W tungstens and have a better colour balance - I like 'em! A bunch of 'em in the Shed of Danger! To me the CFLs, mains LEDs etc are OK for lighting the lav', hallways and the porch but the colour rendering makes me a bit nauseous :(

B&Q seem to have regular bargain bins of 2-packs of 300W and 150W linear halogens to fit security lights - at £1 a pair, I've stocked up for the foreseeable future!

Dave H.

Reply to
Dave H.

I estimate the 36W spiral is about same light output as 100W halogen in these reflector fittings. Being a significantly larger light source than a 500W filament, the beam will be less controlled and wider angle.

The one I've seen had a very cold/blue tube, which I wouldn't want, but I would hope that you can get more suitable colour tubes.

I keep thinking how I might use the tube in a light of my own design. It has the potential to be one of the most efficient small fluorescent light sources with reasonably high output. Unfortunately, using this inside a close-fitting reflector such as with the 500W-look-a-like lights reduces efficiency. In a more efficient fitting, it will probably come close to 150W equivalent output.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Good point that, as where there're are intended to go it is a bit high up there and they will vibrate a bit too. The 21 watt replacement lamp is as expected nowhere near as bright as a 500 watt "thermal" bulb but we can duplicate them so perhaps it will be OK and of course if one bulb blows then there will be some light to suffice;)..

JOOI is there another type of bulb/light that produces that same "ish" sort of light as a 500 watt halogen bulb floodlight but gives a white light that comes up pretty quickly?.

Doesn't matter at all if its a different fitment...

Cheers...

Reply to
tony sayer

Metal Halide

Or similar (that's first google hit).

Reply to
<me9

Don't they take a long time to warm up? Or have they improved the design?

Reply to
Simon C

A couple of minutes. OK for timed operation or dust/dawn, but not PIR switching.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

From the ones I had I think they don't restart unless they have cooled off which is a bigger problem for PIR use. I don't know if that was just the particular lamp design or a general problem.

Reply to
dennis

How do they perform at low temperatures, like outdoors in deep winter?

Reply to
Frank Erskine

True of most high pressure discharge lamps. When warmed up (and hence at some pressure compared with cold), the striking voltage is higher than provided. Need to cool before they will restrike. There are special hot restrike versions, but much more expensive, and need special control gear and connectors to generate and handle much higher voltage striking pulses. Rarely used anywhere.

The other thing is that, somewhat like fluorescents, many of these lamps wear significantly during starting. Doesn't matter if they only switch on once per day, but would be a disaster with frequent switching.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

No problem at all. If you're running at somewhere around 400-600C, it doesn't make much difference if the ambient is 15C or -15C. They mostly use ignitors to generate starting pulses too.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Notice B&Coo now only stock 400w & 120 rather than 500 and 150 respectively.

Toolstations unbranded CED lamps significantly better lfe than the 30p more expensive Sylvania.

Cheers Adam

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

I currently use 5 70W SON-Ts and a few 18W 2D fluorescents around the yard on a solar cell trigger. I'm thinking of adding a timer to switch them off between 20:00 and 6:00 when the yard is empty but with a community light type one shot 1 hour timer as an override. I take it this wouldn't significantly affect bulb life? I pay about 6quid for a bulb.

Also I'm still after a 110V starter/ballast to run one of these SON bulbs as a trial for site light if anyone knows of such a beast, the white light is necessary.

AJH

Reply to
andrew

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