I've done this previously on blockwork (easy!) and dot'n'dab dry-lined (spit!) walls but will soon be starting on stud walls for the first time. The cupboard edges are certain not to align with the studs and I think external batterns would look like a bodge so I'm resigned to having to remove some plasterboard to install noggins. Is there an alternative?
18 mm plywood fixed to studs and same size as cupboards
Andrew
Biggles@flies_undone.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:
you cn get lengths of hanging rail. You need to trim a bit of the cabinet sides away - but it makes it easy to get more fixings
I've done this previously on blockwork (easy!) and dot'n'dab dry-lined
I used a continuous aluminium rail that the cabinets hang on in place of the individual brackets. The rail can easily be screwed to the stud frame behind the plasterboard.
Mike
generally a cupboard spans at least two studs. I screw a slender batten or a strip of MDF to those to fit inside the rear of the cupboard, and that takes most of the weight,then a few small screws into the batten itself do the trick.
No more nails to glue the batten to the wall also helps.
do similar at the base.
In extremis just cut a slab of MDF to fit into the recess of the cupboard and glue it to the plasterboard..
That's great! With hindsight it's an obvious answer but it hadn't occured to me to search. Many thanks!
Wow! Some great ideas but I think the long hanging rail is the one I'll opt for, possibly with an internal panel in the end cabinets if they don't reach to a stud and there's a long cantilevered section. Many thanks to all!
Another option is a strip of wood under the bottom edge of the cabinet.
NT
Done versions of all of the above in the past but now use HD hollow wall an chors using a setting tool and have never had a cupboard move on me and SWA MBO really knows how load up a cupboard. Some people have an aversion to th ese thinking that the weight of the cupboard will pull the anchor through t he PB when in fact a wall hung cupboard exerts most weight at right angle t o the anchor rather than a pulling force through the hole. Using a setting tool helps rather than relying on the screw to spread the anchor causes les s damage to the hole and the PB where the anchor spreads against.
Richard
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